Ask Lucas

[drgreenlove]

Thx Hydro.

I think I have a rough estimate for my situation I just wanted to see how it corresponded with "the lucas man".

BTW, I stopped chasing ph awhile back after i bought an ro system. the gh nutes seem to level out on their own pretty good.

but i def see what ur saying.............

[ploomez]

Hi lucas ,
thanks for putting so much time into this. I'm stunned you are not raving about
Advanced Nutrients 3-part grow-micro-bloom! it really does put GH to shame
just buy having 2-4 different chealators per micro nutrient ensures rapid nute uptake over a wide pH range, not to mention its more concentrated so nutrients remain avaible longer in a recurculating system, the list goes on.

so have you hade any experence with AN 3part? what are your thoughts?
mabye a side by side trial with both companys 3-pats no additives- same
conditions....i think you will be be pleased,suprised and shocked!
give them a go you wont look back.

take it easy-ploomez

[kindlydank]

Hey Lucas, you da man.

My friend has another question about his grow. I decided to post this here instead of the sick plants forum because he's been closely following your wisdom. His C99 F2's seem to be experiencing some sort of "speckling" on lower leaves. Apparently when a new leaf unfolds, if you hold it up to light, you can see tiny dots. They appear first around the tips of the leaves, then eventually cover the whole leaf once it gets 3 or 4 nodes old. The leaf doesn't die, but the older leaves sure are ugly. At first he thought he had mites, but can't find any sign of them with a magnifier. The really wierd part is that the plants don't seem to mind, they are growing MADLY... you can almost see them grow.

The environmental conditions meet your specs. The canopy temps are low 70s, the res temp are high 60s. He's using a 22 gallon tubbler under a 600 hps and nothing but RO water. He's only using 10 watts of air pumps, but temps are no problem. He's using the add back strategy. He didn't freak and dump the res because the problem seemed to appear immediately with a fresh batch of 0-8-16. His .5 tds reads 950 with a fresh batch and he adds more nutes when it hits 800 ppm.

NIMBY (in the good 'ole days) used to claim that his C99's needed more mg than the LF provided. Do you think he may be correct and my friend needs to supplement? ...or could the LF be a little too rich for them? If it IS because LF is too rich, he's afraid that adding some cal mag may totally fry everything!

Thanks for all of your selfless help through the years, we value your $.02 at close to a nickel!

kindlydank

[Lucas]

> should I go with the straight 8-16 or cut it back to hit 1300ppm

let the nutes go through a bit of a range.. if 0-8-16 starts out at 1475 on your meter, top with water only until it drops to about 1200ppm, then, on about a once a week maintenance schedule, raise the nute strength back up to about 1400ppm..

thanks for the kind words from everyone, much appreciated

> What size table would u recco and why?

for 1600 watts I would consider a 3x6 table

> Have u ever used a waterfarm

no but if its working for you, great!

> will the add back for the FloraNova Bloom be 2ml/gal?

that would be a good starting point. then check TDS and if its a bit high (over 1400), top with water till it drops and use less than 2ml next time.. or if the TDS is a bit low (under 1200), add some nutes to bring the TDS back up to about 1400

these answers contemplate a system that has a barrel of water and nutes that are feeding into the growing reservoir thru a float valve.. if that barrel has just water, no nutes, then a simple way to bring TDS back up is to add nutes once a week.. but, dont add nutes direct to a root zone.. better to pump out, nute outside the root zone, and pump back..

> do you find that there is an average add back cycle? daily, every other day, or something as a rule?

the simplest approach is to automate the water addback with a float valve.. then add nutes once a week..

> My opinion would be to let your pH determine your add back strength and frequency.

excellent point!

if I saw a res at pH 6.5 and a TDS of 900, it would confirm that more nutes are needed

if I saw a res at pH 4.5 and a TDS of 1800, adding plain water without nutes would both lower the TDS and raise the pH.. I like a pH range between 5.2 and 5.8

> have you hade any experence with AN 3part? what are your thoughts?

no experience
afaik, AN's 3part has the same NPKMg levels as the GH Flora series
Im glad its working for you

> "speckling" on lower leaves

besides mites, (check carefully on the underside of the leaves with 30x magnification, there are also other pests that will speckle the leaves, such as fungus gnat larvae, and thrips... make sure there are no algae sources in the grow, that will feed the hatchlings of flying critters whose larvae chew on the plants)

lack of Mg can cause spots.. but imho 0-8-16 has plenty of Mg.. NIMBY did not use 0-8-16.. he used a 1/3 strength mix, topped with 1/3 strength.. dumping and replacing 1/3 of his res periodically.. so I was not surprised he had a need for more Mg.

the spotted leaves with full strength 0-8-16 imho is not from a lack of Mg.

though you may find this strange...try doubling the airpump power, so the roots have plenty of oxygen to be as healthy as possible..

check if the roots have any lack of health.. is there any brown color to the roots at harvest, or are they nice and white?

also check if there is plenty of CO2, either by supplementing with a generator or tank, or by having constant fresh air moving through the canopy

hth
Lucas

[kindlydank]

Quote:

check if the roots have any lack of health.. is there any brown color to the roots at harvest, or are they nice and white?

They are off-white to tan... but I definitely would not call them brown. Is any color change ok, or are they supposed to be pearly white like new roots the entire grow? He's about four weeks in to it...

Thanks again for all of your help, us hydro newbies must make you crazy...

kindlydank

[BusterHymen]

Using the lucas formula,does anyone have a week by week break down using Flora Nova,Bloom(ppm@ either.5 or .7 conversion) recipe.I'll be using it in a vertical setup with C02 @1500 ppms,along with Phosphoload,another product that I have yet to use but would also like info on if anyones got any on it?I'll also be using silica with the phosphoload.Any help would be great! Thanks


Buster,

[Lucas]

> Is any color change ok, or are they supposed to be pearly white like new roots the entire grow?

it is common for there to be some color change, staining from the dye in the nutes maybe..

but otoh, with more oxygen, more of the roots will remain vigorous and white, like new roots..

> week by week break down using Flora Nova,Bloom

it does not vary, other than by plants usage of water.. as discussed above... and I dont endorse your use of additives.. but, you might want to learn to use pH's calculator if you do start reinventing the nutrient wheel..

> us hydro newbies must make you crazy

only the ones who dont read the info in this thread, then ask a question that was already answered. Theres a limit to how many times I can stand to hear myself repeating the same info.

but then, I hope that the time I take passing on what I was taught, will produce some other torchbearers, to carry on the knowledge

Lucas

[drgreenlove]

Lucas I salute You. you're patience is unbelievable at times, but on half of those who have learned from you Thanks, forever..........

[GirlWonderGrows]

Hey Lucas,
Firstly I want to say thank you for providing the great information you do. It is very refreshing to see someone talking inteligently about the needs of the plants instead of just rooting for one nutrient brand or another.

My question has to do with the KBS system. I've been told that larger plants don't respond well to the Lucas formula, and I'm curious to hear what you think of this. Some have said there is more N required, others have said they get good results with it.

Also, I am not completly sure what your relationship to the CannaStats web page is, there are some common threads between your ideas and the ones there. As a side project I was planning on doing a drain to waste coco system, but the information there on nutrient solution managment pulled me back to ebb and flow tables. As I am working on pulling my KBS grow together, I am wondering about the same thing- most KBS advice says that you should replace the nute solution every 5-6 days. Why can't the control track program be used in a KBS grow? Is it because large plants respond diffrently, or because the 100% add back point comes within several days with such large plants, or is it simply grower prejudice?

And lastly , what about the "toxins" that are released from the roots? This is an oft-sighted reason for changing the resouvour so often, and for running plain water in the system for 24-48 hours every week. Do you think this 'rinsing' is a good idea? Why don't smaller plants need this? E&F never recives this type of frequent leaching.

Thank you again, and I await your response with baited breath.
GWG

[Klutter]

Lucas - Hats off to you and your efforts here! It's an honor to be able to pick your mind, as I'm sure you already know

GirlWonderGrows - I've run through several grows without ever changing the rez (DWC and E/F). Water was clear, no deposits, no toxins.

Rather than bombard you with questions already asked I've actually done one better. Read through the entire thread, as well as others you've posted on diff boards - and then I used your formula and methods for a few grows.

Based on my experiences it has taken a little patience, math, etc but all has gone well. And this brings me to my actual question, dealing with additives.

From what I gather they are mistakenly used by most (myself included in the past) as a way to make up for whatever the plant was lacking. This 'abuse' of additives ends up hurting things more than it helps them.

Question: Would you recommend EVER using additives and if so in what case? Example: I've got Dark Energy (high N) which seems to have no place in this formula. Then there's KoolBloom which does not seem to have a place either. I mean if I'm maintaining a 2EC, keeping up with the water refils, etc - wouldnt trying to add in KoolBloom or Sweet, etc actually cause more harm than good?

Just trying to separate the marketing fluff from actual proven results utilizing your methodology. Sure, I've read plenty of posts from those swearing by KB or Sweet - but I have yet to see any documented evidence that these additives arent simply making up for what they current nutrient program lacks.

So any experience you have to share on this would be appreciated!

[Mr. Dancing Monkey]

Lucas, sorry for the delay in responding.

"was wondering what your yield is per 1k of light, and how many days of 12/12 it takes to get there"
12 to 16oz average table yield, 60 to 70 days at 12-12
working with bagseed, searching for best plants, nothing is uniform in size or appearance, working on better mother selection

"imho, anything over 24oz per 1k in 50 days is above average"
That is an excellant goal to shoot for, what strain or strains would you reccomend to hit that goal consistantly?

"also, you dont mention if you use CO2, do you?"
not at this time, what are your thoughts on the estimated set up cost and cost per month of a good regulated system. No one I know use's it, but they grow in soil. what percent yield improvement would be expected?

Second problem, having very inconsistent root lenght, on clones
72 to 75 degrees room temp
64 to 69 Res temps
5.8 ph plus or minus .2
2-2-2 clone in separate ebb and flow clone box, after first week of RO only
0-4-8 third week in clone box until 6 inch or longer roots develops
Would increase in res or room temps, or add superthrive or other additive to water be of use during root growth phase?

[Lucas]

> I've been told that larger plants don't respond well to the Lucas formula

I have never heard this before.. and I do not believe it

> I am not completly sure what your relationship to the CannaStats web page is

I am a student of the owner of that page (his handle is "pH") and have shared what I learned from there. The Lucas Formula was not my idea, I learned it from pH.

> most KBS advice says that you should replace the nute solution every 5-6 days. Why can't the control track program be used in a KBS grow?f

I have no experience with the KBS system, but imho, it IS possible to manage a nutrient solution in such a way that it does not need to be dumped... by adding new nutes to the old mix, to bring the TDS back up..

> what about the "toxins" that are released from the roots?

my experience with extended reservoir life is that the "toxin" model is not accurate for plants. It is accurate for mammals, but not for plants.

imho, the main benefit of changing out the reservoir, in a system topped with just water, is that the TDS comes back up after the res change. But imho, this can be accomplished by simply adding nutes to the existing depleted reservoir.

the one thing that does change over time in a continuously topped res, is that some of the nutes accumulate unused. This can be detected by tracking pH. iow, if you bring a res back up to say 1300ppm by adding nutes, and the pH remains extremely high, above 6.5 on a res normally running below 6.0, it is because there is too much unused K or other nutes in the mix

my experience indicates that using the same reservoir for the life of the crop is totally viable. I once went 3 crop cycles on the same res, before pH became unreasonably high..

> Would you recommend EVER using additives

no, not for GH nutes, they have plenty of Mg, which Pure Blend Pro lacks. Sweet is part of the Pure Blend solution to low Mg levels. A problem that does not exist with GH

Do use Sweet or Cal Mag with PBP...

GH nutes are complete without additives.. I like GH Flora series at 0-8-16 or Flora Nova Bloom if your system tolerates thick nutes (no sprayers to clog)

> these additives arent simply making up for what they current nutrient program lacks.

I think that is exactly what is going on... the Mg additives in the PBP family are there to make the nutes more like GH..

now an aside on using more N during the first 2-3 weeks of bloom..

I did a test with Flora Nova Grow used for the first mix of a new bloom res at the beginning of 12/12, to see what the extra N would do (strain was Trainwreck).. The res was topped with FloraNovaBloom for the remainder of the crop. I got one of my best yields. The stems were taller, hollower, and fatter. The buds were some of the biggest Ive produced.

> what strain or strains would you reccomend to hit that goal consistantly

my current favorite is Trainwreck... I like strains that finish in less than 50 days..

> what percent yield improvement would be expected (from CO2)

I dont have any figures for that. However my experience with CO2 enhancement, is that it produces MUCH higher quality buds... fatter calyxes, less leaf ratio, AND about a 5 day drop in maturity time..

> having very inconsistent root lenght, on clones

somewhat unavoidable.. some things to add consistency..
1. use similar sized cuttings, including similar stem thickness in particular
2. make more clones than needed, choose the strongest ones
3. get the cloning system dialed so cuts root quickly (10 days)... such as keeping temp near 80F in the cutting root zone.. (depends on the cloning system whether this is possible.. I like nursery flats with domes, fluorescent light, and a heating mat.. with wrapped rockwool cubes that can be labeled). For vegging rooted clones, I like strong fluoro light, such as T5's

here is a snapshot of a propagation strategy..
1. cutting goes into rooting system for 2 weeks, water only works, but its OK to use half or quarter strength nutes.
2. cutting gets potted in 4" pots and moves to "preveg" area under strong fluoros, with full strength nutes, again for 2 weeks
3. prevegged plants are repotted to 1 gallon pots and vegged for 2 more weeks, under HPS
4. vegged plants get transplanted to their final pot, 2-5 gallon size, and go to bloom under HPS for 6 weeks.. (cuttings for the next cycle are taken just before the flip to 12/12

hth
Lucas

[gisisi]

GirlWonderGrows:

The advice you have heard regarding rez management with KBS is just part of Krusty's religion. He subscribed to the plant toxins theory, which is just plain wrong.

When I ran KBS, I followed his instructions to a T, including dumping perfectly good nutes every five days and flushing for two. It was a major pain in the ass, and the number one thing I would change if I ever ran it again.

If you have any questions about the pesky details of KBS, I remember most of it.

gisisi

[Mr. Dancing Monkey]

Lucas, thanks for the reply, I will let you know how the table goes as soon as I locate some trainwreck.
As always, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
DM

[b1vwrf13]

I have just finish the second review of this thread from page one to thirteen. All my admiration for the way you are handling the smorgasbord of inquiries that are thrown at you. I deeply appreciate the soundness of your reasoning and the way you communicate it.

I use to be a dirt farmer in a previous life and the plants I was taking care of, repeatedly, over a two year period, achieved ~ 18 ozs per 1 KWatts over 7 weeks with GH flora products, mix as per label at ~ 900 ppm with the following sequence Nutes

[Lucas]

thanks for the kind words friends and fellow learners

> do you have any thoughts about a vertical set-up and Ebb & flow versus Drip irrigation.

vertical can be very high yielding, based on very high plant numbers... .like over 30 plants per 1k of light.. which is about the limit for a flat ebb flow..

with vertical plant numbers go up to 50 or more per 1k.. this puts you into very high plant numbers when you consider counting the incoming clones.. I dont recommend the risk of having more than 99 plants total, as it invites problems with Federal law.. in some circumstances.. such as when a local law enforcement person wants to sidestep local law, and turns the case over to a DEA buddy..

imho, ebb flow is an excellent approach to cultivation.. it has the benefit of individual pots that can be moved around, unlike DWC, and ebb flow is very resistant to heat, since the root zone is acting like a swamp cooler between irrigations, due to the evaporation of water from the grorox.

I dont have much good to say about drip.. the lines are small, and prone to clogging with algae over time.. the use of drip is often linked to the use of dense soil like mediums, which creates potential problems from overwatering..

I really like grorox... you can drip to them, and I recommend just using open drip lines without emmiters and generally wont have the problem of overwatering that Im blaming on drippers.. which is really a problem with the density of the medium

drippers do have the advantage of being able to water a taller pot than an ebb flow system.., but with the top of the medium getting wet, and light reaching the nutrient wet medium from top watering, there is a potential problem if Algae grows.. Algae is very bad because it feeds the larvae of small flying insects like fungus gnats..

look at the Multiflow as an example of an ebb flow system that works with taller pots..

most ebb flow is done in small 1 gallon or smaller pots.. but the multiflow uses 2 gallon pots, thereby supporting larger plants and bringing plant numbers down to about 10 per 1k.. which I happen to like..

to set up a plant support system for 1k of light a 4x4 ebb flow is one of the simplest ways to go, if you are comfortable with 20+ plants per 1k..

as far as vertical options, besides building your own.. the Colisseum is the ultimate device for maximum plant numbers.. they hold 300 plants.. which if you are in Canada may be no big deal, but in the US, makes me uncomfortable..

besides which, my main goal here is to share how to produce your own personal medicine, this is not about big manufacturing endeavors.. therefore.. I recommend focusing on either an ebb flow table, or a Multiflow ebb flow system.. I also really like HydroHuts for containing the grow.

Hydrohuts are very easy to build and disassemble, take up very little space when broken down. are very light and easy to transport, and are able to support hanging the lights and other grow accessories, without drilling any holes into the structure of the building...

If you have ever tried building cabinets, boxes, or other framed enclosures for a grow, you will really appreciate the benefits of a Hydrohut. And, I dont think you can build a box with all the features of a hydrohut, for less than you can buy it..

so imho, a hydrohut with an ebb flow or multiflow, is a very good way to go..

hth
Lucas

ps, heres a picture of 3 hydrohut sizes, http://tinyurl.com/2z3y79 the second picture shows a hydrohut with a multiflow. Notice that the multiflow allows for much more plant height than an ebb flow would.. (its actually a tradeoff, a hydrohut with an ebb flow table uses many short plants, with a multiflow it uses fewer but taller plants.. either way works)

[b1vwrf13]

Anybody let me know if using your whole post to intersperse my comments is a no/no here ...

[quote=Lucas;53343]thanks for the kind words friends and fellow learners

Thanks for your speedy reply and also for pointing out articles written by your influential other, Ph, that you credit for some of your learning. I have spent the early hours to go - with great satisfaction - throught:

• Nutrient solution management and longevity
• Nutrient profiles for canabis
• Control track
• Alternative EC/TDS Standards for GH Flora Series Nutrients

It brought back an old saying in my field of experience that says: If you cannot measure it, you cannot understand it, if you cannot understand it, you cannot improve it.


> do you have any thoughts about a vertical set-up and Ebb & flow versus Drip irrigation.

vertical can be very high yielding, based on very high plant numbers... .like over 30 plants per 1k of light.. which is about the limit for a flat ebb flow..

with vertical plant numbers go up to 50 or more per 1k.. this puts you into very high plant numbers when you consider counting the incoming clones.. I dont recommend the risk of having more than 99 plants total, as it invites problems with Federal law.. in some circumstances.. such as when a local law enforcement person wants to sidestep local law, and turns the case over to a DEA buddy..

imho, ebb flow is an excellent approach to cultivation.. it has the benefit of individual pots that can be moved around, unlike DWC, and ebb flow is very resistant to heat, since the root zone is acting like a swamp cooler between irrigations, due to the evaporation of water from the grorox.

I dont have much good to say about drip.. the lines are small, and prone to clogging with algae over time.. the use of drip is often linked to the use of dense soil like mediums, which creates potential problems from overwatering..

I really like grorox... you can drip to them, and I recommend just using open drip lines without emmiters and generally wont have the problem of overwatering that Im blaming on drippers.. which is really a problem with the density of the medium


drippers do have the advantage of being able to water a taller pot than an ebb flow system.., but with the top of the medium getting wet, and light reaching the nutrient wet medium from top watering, there is a potential problem if Algae grows.. Algae is very bad because it feeds the larvae of small flying insects like fungus gnats..

This whole thread and my previous experience with soil has convinced me of the value of grorox as a medium. Would locating the drip line under the surface of the grorox solve the algae problem ?

look at the Multiflow as an example of an ebb flow system that works with taller pots..

most ebb flow is done in small 1 gallon or smaller pots.. but the multiflow uses 2 gallon pots, thereby supporting larger plants and bringing plant numbers down to about 10 per 1k.. which I happen to like..

to set up a plant support system for 1k of light a 4x4 ebb flow is one of the simplest ways to go, if you are comfortable with 20+ plants per 1k..

You have mentioned here and there in this thread a production of two pounds per 1K, is this indifferently with smaller pots or larger ones ?

as far as vertical options, besides building your own.. the Colisseum is the ultimate device for maximum plant numbers.. they hold 300 plants.. which if you are in Canada may be no big deal, but in the US, makes me uncomfortable..

You are right, our society is quite more permissive in that regard than yours.

besides which, my main goal here is to share how to produce your own personal medicine, this is not about big manufacturing endeavors..

We share the same goal; I have been diagnose with MS 26 years ago this month, and cannabis is one reason that when SHE is acting out we can still stay in speaking terms.

I consider The coliseum, The omega garden and similar systems to be at one end of the vertical spectrum (commercial); at the other end we find that Czech grower using and enclosed vertical SCROG who produces ~ 6-8 oz of medicine with an 150 watts HPS. What I am pointing at is, that beside the benefits of producing one's own medicine, some people might be drawn to the challenge of optimising, space, energy, time and other inputs to produce a given result (KWH used to produce 30 grams of medicine over a square meter of floor space). Therefore my interest for a vertical homebuild system roughly 5.5 feet in diameter, 3 feet high, ~ 24 sqft of floor space with a single or 1000 watts HPS in a cool tube for flowering. The question remain, at first sight , Ebb & Flow possible/too complex for three "floors" of pots ?

I had litterature on the multiflow system, the hydro hut was new to me; seems a really neat enclosure - in my particular set of circumstances though, enclosure and stealth are not part of the problem.

Looking forward to hear from you.

[b1vwrf13]

Sorry I forgot something, you gave a link to Ebb & Flow systems earlier :

http://www.sgs-hydroponic.com/produc...279c34d5cd5f38

When I try to access it, I get the following message :

1044: Access denied for user 'superhyd_admin'@'72.52.140.84' to database 'superhyd_sh'

Any idea ?

[c-ray]

that link is toast try this one:
http://homeharvest.com/hydroponicebbflowtrays.htm

here is the old link from googles cache -> http://72.14.253.104/search?q=cache:...lnk&cd=1&gl=ca

[b1vwrf13]

Thanks c-ray

[Lucas]

> let me know if using your whole post to intersperse my comments is a no/no here

I would prefer if you would quote what you are specifically responding to, by adding a mark, such as this > so I can rell which comments are yours, apart from rereading mine.... but, no biggie

> Would locating the drip line under the surface of the grorox solve the algae problem ?

I would say yes

> production of two pounds per 1K

you should be happy at 1.25 to 1.5 pounds per 45 days.. folks who get 2 pounds in 70 days are getting the equivalent to 1.3lbs per 45 days..

very very very few people achieve 2lbs per 1k, in any number of days, but folks with high plant numbers.. canadians who run 50-150 plants per 1k, often claim even 3lbs per 1k..

> Ebb & Flow possible/too complex for three "floors" of pots

not at all.. I think one could easily deliver water to a shelf containing plants in grorox, and I think your idea to try using drip lines, buried, is good.. (though I would lean towards flooding the shelf instead.. because it delivers water to many pots, from a single source, instead of having many individual water lines..)

considering how much homework/reading you are doing, I hope you will help carry the torch by helping other new users with questions similar to yours

Please share what you learn, I like your style
Lucas

[b1vwrf13]

Thanks for your reply, I will be playing with a design for that 1K circular/octogonal E&F grow set-up, and I will let you know.

> Please share what you learn

As I said, through this thread and my readings of the last few weeks, I indeed learned many usefull elements regarding indoor growing. One of the way that I make sure to not let to many of these to slip, is to read things over and take notes of what appears significant to me. Once done, I try to "synthetise" these elements in what I would call a "Structure Frame of Reference", that allows me to see holes, possible conflicting elements etc. This one could be called "Lucas teachings". I am roughly 80 % done on this 13 pages thread, and I was playing with the idea of going throught :

• Getting started in hydro https://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/showthread.php?t=360
• Against Bubblers https://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/showthread.php?t=358
• Against BioBuckets https://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/showthread.php?t=513
• Veg Wattage and Yield https://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/sh...8330#post18330

and incorporate in that structure elements that I would find there - I just skimmed these when I looked at them.

If you do think that would be a usefull task, let me know and I could hand over a rough draft for your consideration inside of a week, If not still let me know, that I can finished it in a more detached way - read ~ sloppy.

As for a more pointed question - Trainwreck - google do not yield a lot of usefull information on that strain, old links refer to Hillbilly seeds - dead end. Any leads for characteristics and possibly seeds ?

Looking forward to hear from you

[Lucas]

> If you do think that would be a usefull task, let me know

it is your learning process, so I leave it up to you
I do think that the threads you mention could have useful info.. or mostly repeated info, so you begin to see a pattern..

> Trainwreck

it does not exist in seed form, only as a clone, the strain is over 25 years old, developed in the Pacific NorthWest of the USA

it has a very speedy high, meaning I can medicate starting in the morning, and not need a nap by 4pm

Trainwreck has a unique turpentine smell, a little like Diesel

it is available at dispensaries, or from caregivers, or from other medical marijuana patients who might be willing to share it with you. you will have to network to gain access to the heirloom clones..

sharing cuttings of heirloom plants like Trainwreck is a service to humanity. In states with medical marijuana laws, it is legal for patients with doctors recommendations to share cuttings. disclaimer: I do not recommend sharing accross state lines, only within states that have legitimate medical marijuana laws.

Lucas

[Mr. Dancing Monkey]

Lucas, if you have a moment, I was wondering, when you add fresh RO water to top up your res (say 20 gallons), you already know the target you want to hit, which is 100% nutes (1400 PPM) if your res is at 1200 ppm or 86% nutes after you refill the water, could you replace 14% of the amount of your original nutes to bring the PPMs back up to 100%?
I can do this in my head quickley with out a calulator as the other add back formula I have requires. Would this create any problems?
Or would measuring the amount of water replaced, then adding 1/3 nutes for the gallon total as many have done in the past, be the best way to go?
I think it’s the same results either way but I wanted to be sure I wasn’t missing something in the process.

Secondly adding CO2 as this thread mentions;
http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/sho...ight=Co2+boost
>Co2 Boost, Its a new 5 gallon bucket with electric powered generator supposidly garrenteed to keep the co2 level at its max (800 to 1100
ppm).Each buct is suppossed to handle a 10 by 10 foot room. I guess well see.<
>Does anyone else have any knowlege of this product or how well it works?
At only 125.00 for the startup and 100.00 replacement every 60 days for each 2000 watt rooms i have, it would be more than worth it.<

First the buckets are smaller than 5 gallons, second it shows it can be hooked up to a osculating fan to send co2 across the tables as needed on their website.
Secondly if attached to the timer your lights are on, they say it should last 70 days to 3 months.
So basically do you think it would be worth $100.00 a crop to try it? Is it possible to increase yield 25 to 30% with the addition of Co2?
One grower says he had big improvement in grow 35% in the thread, hope he’s right!

>Trainwreck it does not exist in seed form, only as a clone, the strain is over 25 years old, developed in the Pacific NorthWest of the USA<

Thanks for the Trainwreck information.
Sincerely


Mr. Dancing Monkey

[The Cannarchist]

Good Day Lucas

I found this little tidbit whilst surfing.....

Actual nutrient profiles

HYDRO FERTILIZER LIQUID

GENERAL HYDROPONIC
----------FLORA SERIES----------
HARD WTR
Micro

Manufacturer GEN HYD GEN HYD GEN HYD GEN HYD
Product Name MICRO BLOOM GROW HWMICRO
Grams/ml liquid 1.22691 1.14894 1.1124 1.15076

NO3 Nitrate 4.7% 1.75% 3.7%
NH4 Ammoniacal 0.3% 0.25% 0.3%
NH2 Urea 1.0%
Total N 5% 2% 5%
P (as P2O5) 5% 1%
K (as K2O) 1% 4% 6% 1%
Mg 1.5% 0.5%
S 1%
Ca 5% 1%
Fe 0.1% 0.1%
B
Mn 0.05% 0.05%
Zn
Mo 0.0008% 0.0008%
Na
Cu
Cl
Co 0.0005% 0.0005%
B=absent from MICRO & HWMICRO guar analysis but potassium borate listed as a derivative.
Zn=absent from MICRO & HWMICRO guar analysis but zinc nitrate listed as a derivative.
Cu=absent from MICRO & HWMICRO guar analysis but copper nitrate listed as a derivative.


-----GENESIS 4 PART LIQUID-----
Manufacturer GENESIS GENESIS GENESIS GENESIS
Product Name MICRO BLOOM GROW#1 GROW#2
Grams/ml liquid

NO3 Nitrate 3% 6% 12% 12%
NH4 Ammoniacal 3%
NH2 Urea
Total N 3% 6% 12% 15%
P (as P2O5) 10% 15%
K (as K2O) 19% 17% 12% 8%
Mg 3%
S 4%
Ca 4% 12% 8%
Fe 0.2%
B 0.03%
Mn 0.05%
Zn 0.05%
Mo 0.003%
Na
Cu 0.02%
Cl 0.12%
Co
NOTE: Genesis is sold as a paste which is mixed with water to
produce a liquid concentrate from which nutrient solutions are
made. The above analysis is for the raw paste form of the
product, as such it cannot be used directly in the PremixPPM
spreadsheet utility.


Homegrown Hydroponics
---Dutch Nutrient Formula----
Manufacturer HG HYDR HG HYDR HG HYDR HG HYDR
Product Name GRO-A GRO-B BLOOM-A BLOOM-B
Grams/ml liquid 1.092 1.076 1.138 1.076

NO3 Nitrate 2% 0.47% 3% 1%
NH4 Ammoniacal
NH2 Urea
Total N 2% 0.47% 3% 1%
P (as P2O5) 1% 0.5%
K (as K2O) 2% 3.41% 3% 3%
Mg 0.5%
S
Ca 2% 2.3% 2.3%
Fe
B
Mn
Zn
Mo 0.0011% 0.0012%
Na
Cu
Cl
Co
Nitrogen type not known for Homegrown Hydroponics, assuming Nitrate.


--Pure Blend Pro--
Manufacturer PB Pro PB Pro
Product Name Grow Bloom
Grams/ml liquid

NO3 Nitrate 3% 2.5%
NH4 Ammoniacal
NH2 Urea
Total N 3% 2.5%
P (as P2O5) 1.5% 2%
K (as K2O) 4% 5%
Mg 0.5% 0.5%
S
Ca 1% 1%
Fe
B
Mn
Zn
Mo
Na
Cu
Cl
Co
Nitrogen type not known for Pure Blend Pro, assuming Nitrate.


---- Technaflora products ----
Awsome
Blossom

Manufacturer TECHFL TECHFL TECHFL TECHFL
Product Name BCBoost BCGrow BCBloom AweBlos
Grams/ml liquid 1.164 1.164 1.164 1.36643

NO3 Nitrate 3.11% 1.19% 1.14% 1.18%
NH4 Ammoniacal 0.82%
NH2 Urea
Total N 3.11% 1.19% 1.14% 2%
P (as P2O5) 3.24% 4.43% 11%
K (as K2O) 2% 6.53% 7.15% 11%
Mg 1.11% 0.852%
S 1.44% 1.37%
Ca 3.21%
Fe 0.0409% 0.0008%
B 0.0119% 0.0072% 0.00011%
Mn 0.0429% 0.024% 0.00024%
Zn 0.0201% 0.0139% 0.00005%
Mo 0.0004% 0.0001% 0.00001%
Na
Cu 0.0038% 0.0027% 0.00001%
Cl
Co


-- Technaflora products --
Thrive Thrive
Alive Alive
B1-RED B1-GRN

Manufacturer TECHFL TECHFL
Product Name TA-RED TA-GREEN
Grams/ml liquid 1.024

NO3 Nitrate 1% 1%
NH4 Ammoniacal
NH2 Urea
Total N 1% 1%
P (as P2O5) 1% 1%
K (as K2O) 1.5% 1.5%
Mg
S
Ca
Fe 0.01%
B
Mn
Zn
Mo
Na
Cu
Cl
Co
Nitrogen type not known for TA products, assuming Nitrate.
TA-Green contains unspecified amounts of Mg,S,Cu,Ca,Zn,Mn,B,Mo.


--Rockwool Formula 1--
Manufacturer RW-FRM1 RW-FRM1
Product Name Part A Part B
Grams/ml liquid

NO3 Nitrate 7%
NH4 Ammoniacal
NH2 Urea
Total N 7%
P (as P2O5) 1% 5%
K (as K2O) 6%
Mg 1%
S 1%
Ca
Fe 0.1%
B 0.02%
Mn 0.05%
Zn 0.05%
Mo 0.0009%
Na
Cu 0.05%
Cl
Co
Nitrogen type not known for Part B, assuming Nitrate.


--------GEN-X--------
Manufacturer GEN-X GEN-X GEN-X
Product Name MICRO BLOOM GROW
Grams/ml liquid 1.07 1.1 1.08

NO3 Nitrate 1.7% 2.7%
NH4 Ammoniacal 0.3% 0.3%
NH2 Urea
Total N 2% 3%
P (as P2O5) 5%
K (as K2O) 3% 3% 1%
Mg 0.5% 0.5%
S
Ca 1%
Fe 0.5%
B 0.1%
Mn 0.005%
Zn 0.05%
Mo
Na
Cu 0.05%
Cl
Co 0.0005%
http://www.growsystems.com/genx.asp


----Holland Secret----
Manufacturer
Product Name MICRO BLOOM GROW
Grams/ml liquid

NO3 Nitrate
NH4 Ammoniacal
NH2 Urea
Total N 5.1% 2.1%
P (as P2O5) 6.5% 1.0%
K (as K2O) 2.4% 4.5% 7.0%
Mg 1.64%
S 0.03%
Ca 5.0%
Fe 0.0846%
B 0.00169%
Mn 0.0252%
Zn 0.00489%
Mo
Na 0.0187%
Cu 0.00157%
Cl
Co 0.0005%




-------------------------------------------------------
HYDRO FERTILIZER POWDER


--GENERAL HYDROPONICS MAXI-BLOOM AND MAXI-GROW---
Manufacturer GEN HYD GEN HYD
Product Name MAXIBLM MAXIGROW


NO3 Nitrate 4.50% 8.50%
NH4 Ammoniacal 0.50% 1.50%
NH2 Urea
Total N 5% 10%
P (as P2O5) 15% 5%
K (as K2O) 14% 14%
Mg 3.5% 2%
S 4% 3%
Ca 5% 6%
Fe 0.1% 0.12%
B
Mn 0.05%
Zn
Mo
Na
Cu
Cl
Co


--HYDRO FARM---
Manufacturer HYDRFRM HYDRFRM
Product Name BLOOM GROW


NO3 Nitrate 4% 12.5%
NH4 Ammoniacal 6% 7.5%
NH2 Urea
Total N 10% 20%
P (as P2O5) 30% 6%
K (as K2O) 18% 16%
Mg 0.5% 0.5%
S 3% 1%
Ca 1% 1.7%
Fe 0.1% 0.1%
B 0.02% 0.02%
Mn 0.05% 0.05%
Zn 0.05% 0.05%
Mo 0.0005% 0.0005%
Na
Cu 0.05% 0.05%
Cl 0.11% 0.11%
Co


--Eco Enterprises--
(for rockwool)
Manufacturer ECO ECO
Product Name GROW-R BLOOM-R


NO3 Nitrate 10% 4%
NH4 Ammoniacal 4% 2%
NH2 Urea
Total N 14% 6%
P (as P2O5) 6% 25%
K (as K2O) 17% 17%
Mg 1.5% 1.5%
S 2% 2%
Ca 5% 4.8%
Fe 0.2% 0.2%
B 0.03% 0.03%
Mn 0.1% 0.1%
Zn 0.05% 0.05%
Mo 0.0018% 0.0018%
Na
Cu
Cl 0.1% 2%
Co 0.0009% 0.0009%

-------------------------------------------------------
SOIL FERTILIZER POWDERS


------------PETERS------------
Blossom Root& Super
Booster Bloom Blossom
Booster

Manufacturer PETERS PETERS PETERS PETERS
Product Name B/B R&B S/B/B 20-20-20


NO3 Nitrate 5.64% 1.97%
NH4 Ammoniacal 4.36% 5% 6.57%
NH2 Urea 3.43% 18.03%
Total N 10% 5% 10% 20%
P (as P2O5) 30% 50% 50% 20%
K (as K2O) 20% 17% 10% 20%
Mg 0.05% 0.5% 0.5%
S
Ca
Fe 0.05% 0.05% 0.1% 0.1%
B 0.007% 0.007% 0.02% 0.02%
Mn 0.003% 0.003% 0.05% 0.05%
Zn 0.003% 0.003% 0.05% 0.05%
Mo 0.001% 0.001% 0.0005% 0.0005%
Na
Cu 0.004% 0.004% 0.05% 0.05%
Cl 5%
Co


----Stern's-----
Miracle
Grow

Manufacturer STERNS STERNS
Product Name M/G Miracid


NO3 Nitrate
NH4 Ammoniacal 6.8% 3%
NH2 Urea 8.20% 27%
Total N 15% 30%
P (as P2O5) 30% 10%
K (as K2O) 15% 10%
Mg
S
Ca
Fe 0.15% 0.325%
B 0.02% 0.02%
Mn 0.05% 0.05%
Zn 0.06% 0.07%
Mo 0.0005% 0.0005%
Na
Cu 0.07% 0.07%
Cl 12.5% 7%
Co


-Schultz-
Instant

Manufacturer Schultz
Product Name Bloom+


NO3 Nitrate
NH4 Ammoniacal 10%
NH2 Urea
Total N 10%
P (as P2O5) 60%
K (as K2O) 10%
Mg
S
Ca
Fe 0.1%
B
Mn 0.05%
Zn 0.05%
Mo
Na
Cu
Cl
Co


-Chevron Chem-
Ortho Consume
RA-PID GRO

Manufacturer Ortho
Product Name RAP-GRO


NO3 Nitrate 5.1%
NH4 Ammoniacal 5.3%
NH2 Urea 12.6%
Total N 23%
P (as P2O5) 19%
K (as K2O) 17%
Mg
S
Ca
Fe 0.1%
B 0.02%
Mn 0.05%
Zn 0.05%
Mo
Na
Cu 0.05%
Cl
Co

------------------------------------------------------

OTHER


--DYNA GRO LIQUID--
Manufacturer DYNA DYNA
Product Name BLOOM GROW
Grams/ml liquid

NO3 Nitrate 2.5% 4.75%
NH4 Ammoniacal 0.5% 2.25%
NH2 Urea
Total N 3% 7%
P (as P2O5) 12% 9%
K (as K2O) 6% 5%
Mg 0.5% 0.5%
S
Ca 2% 2%
Fe 0.1% 0.1%
B 0.02% 0.02%
Mn 0.05% 0.05%
Zn 0.05% 0.05%
Mo 0.0015% 0.0015%
Na 0.1% 0.1%
Cu 0.05% 0.05%
Cl 0.1% 0.1%
Co 0.0015% 0.0015%


-Growth Technology-
Formulex(1part)
Manufacturer GR/TECH
Product Name FORMULEX


NO3 Nitrate 1.72%
NH4 Ammoniacal 0.08%
NH2 Urea
Total N 1.8%
P (as P2O5) 0.21%
K (as K2O) 1.95%
Mg 0.24%
S
Ca 1.1%
Fe 0.05%
B 0.003%
Mn 0.01%
Zn 0.002%
Mo 0.0005%
Na
Cu
Cl
Co


-Schultz-
Instant
Liquid
Plant Food
Manufacturer SCHULTZ
Product Name INST-LIQ
Grams/ml liquid

NO3 Nitrate 0.6%
NH4 Ammoniacal 1%
NH2 Urea 8.4%
Total N 10%
P (as P2O5) 15%
K (as K2O) 10%
Mg
S
Ca
Fe
B
Mn
Zn
Mo
Na
Cu
Cl
Co



-------------------------------------------------------


The following was taken from a url supplied to me, the information may
be useful to those interested. I've reorganized the list so those items
relating to the above data would appear first.

The writers were orchid growers.

--snip--

Fertilizers

Nitrogen. It is important to use the correct type of nitrogen. Urea is
one type, but it is a slow-release type that should be avoided. Nitrogen
should come primarily from nitrates (nitrate salts), with 25% or less
from ammonium. Zuma Canyon and Dyna-Grow are two examples of fertilizers
using the correct type of nitrogen. Orchid Hunter 8/91 Most useful to
plants when new growth is nearing completion (Rentoul, Specialist Orchid
Grower, 179 ) Miracid was originally developed as an orchid food.

My friend, a chemical engineer, joined me on 11/24/95 for some
preliminary chemical analyses of a number of orchid fertilizers I had on
hand, especially to check for total dissolved solids (in parts per
million) and pH. The experiment was conducted in my kitchen and not in a
laboratory, so some of the measurements may be approximate rather than
exact, but perhaps they give some general ideas for comparison.
Additional work was done in February 1996.

The water used was reverse osmosis water with a total of 20 ppm of total
dissolved solids. It is also, of course, unbuffered.



Miracle Grow 15-30-15 has 6.8% ammoniacal, 8.2% urea, and 6
micronutrients listed.

1/4 t. 6.0 pH and 180 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 6.3 pH and 340 ppm TDS
1 t. 6.5 pH and 750 ppm TDS



Peters Super Bloom Booster 10-50-10 has 6.57 ammoniacal nitrogen, and
3.43 urea nitrogen. 7 trace elements are
listed.

1/4 t. 5.5 pH and 140 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 5.0 pH and 280 ppm TDS
1 t. 4.7 pH and 530 ppm TDS



Peters 5-50-17 has all ammoniacal nitrogen, and no listed
micronutrients.

1/4 t. 5.4 pH and 190 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 5.0 pH and 340 ppm TDS
1 t. 4.8 pH and 590 ppm TDS



Dyna-Gro 3-12-6 has 0.5% ammoniacal nitrogen and 2.5% nitrate nitrogen
and 11 micronutrients listed.

1/4 t. 4.6 pH and 110 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 3.9 pH and 260 ppm TDS
1 t. 4.0 pH and 490 ppm TDS
1 T. 3.6 pH and 1240 ppm TDS



Dyna-Gro 7-9-5 has 2.25 ammoniacal nitrogen and 4.75 nitrate nitrogen,
and lists 11 micronutrients.

1/4 t. 5.2 pH and 150 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 4.6 pH and 290 ppm TDS
1 t. 4.2 pH and 600 ppm TDS

1/4 t. of 7-9-5 and 1/8 t. Dyna-Gro pH Up (0-0-8):
6.9 pH and 170 ppm TDS

1/2 t. of 7-9-5 and 1/8 t. Dyna-Gro pH Up (0-0-8):
6.0 pH and 440 ppm TDS

1/4 t. of 7-9-5 and 1/4 t. Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt (0-0-3.7):
6.5 pH and 200 ppm TDS

1/2 t. of 7-9-5 and 1/4 t. Dyna-Gro Pro-Tekt (0-0-3.7):
6.3 pH and 600 ppm TDS



Dyna-Gro 10-5-5 has 3.4 ammoniacal nitrogen and 6.6 nitrate nitrogen,
and lists 4 micronutrients.

1/4 t. 5.7 pH and 210 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 5.2 pH and 340 ppm TDS
1 t. 4.6 pH and 510 ppm TDS



Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt 0-0-3.7

1/4 t. 9.1 pH and 30 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 9.6 pH and 60 ppm TDS
1 t. 9.7 pH and 80 ppm TDS



DynaGro Pro-TeKt 0-0-3.7 mixed with Dyna-Gro 7-9-5 at the rate of 1 t.
of Pro-TeKt

1/4 t. 8.5 pH and 210 ppm TDS
1/2 t 7.1 pH and 340 ppm TDS
1 t. 6.2 pH and 620 ppm TDS



DynaGro Pro-TeKt 0-0-3.7 mixed with Dyna-Gro 7-9-5 at the rate of 1/2 t.
Pro-TeKt

1/4 t. 7.4 pH and 200 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 6.4 pH and 390 ppm TDS
1 t. 6.0 pH and 600 ppm TDS



Diamond Grow 8-4-8 has 3.16% ammoniacal nitrogen and 4.84% nitrate
nitrogen. It is labeled to be used at the rate of 1
t./gal. in the winter and 1 T./gal. in the summer. No micronutrients
listed.

1/4 t. 5.90 pH and 160 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 5.90 pH and 230 ppm TDS
1 t. 5.90 pH and 350 ppm TDS



Hi-Yield 3-6-3 has 1.78% ammoniacal nitrogen, 0.90% nitrate nitrogen and
0.33% urea nitrogen.

1/4 t. 6.3 pH and 120 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 6.3 pH and 220 ppm TDS
1 t. 6.4 pH and 280 ppm TDS



Hi-Yield African Violet Food 3-9-6 has 2.41% ammoniacal nitrogen, 0.59
nitrate nitrogen.

1/4 t. 6.3 pH and 170 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 6.4 pH and 320 ppm TDS
1 t. 6.5 pH and 560 ppm TDS



GrowMore 6-30-30 has 2.5% ammoniacal nitrogen, 3.3% nitrate nitrogen and
lists 5 micronutrients.

1/4 t. 5.6 pH and 210 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 5.35 pH and 360 ppm TDS
1 t. 5.1 pH and 670 ppm TDS



GrowMore 17-8-22 Bromeliad has 7.35 ammoniacal nitrogen, 9.55 nitrate
nitrogen and three listed micronutrients.

1/4 t. 5.3 pH and 260 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 5.1 pH and 520 ppm TDS
1 t. 4.9 pH and 1000 ppm TDS



GrowMore 20-10-20 has 8.8% ammoniacal nitrogen and 12% nitrate nitrogen
and lists 5 micronutrients.

1/4 t. 4.8 pH and 240 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 4.8 pH and 500 ppm TDS
1 t. 4.5 pH and 840 ppm TDS

Adding 1/8 t. of Dyna-Gro pH Up (0-0-8):
7.3 pH and 350 ppm TDS

Adding 1/8 t. of Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt (0-0-3.7):
6.6 pH and 320 ppm TDS



GrowMore 20-20-20 Orchid has 3.9% ammoniacal nitrogen, 5.7% nitrate
nitrogen and 10.4% urea nitrogen.

1/4 t. 5.3 pH and 140 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 5.1 pH and 360 ppm TDS
1 t. 5.0 pH and 620 ppm TDS



GrowMore 30-10-10 Orchid has 2.0 ammoniacal nitrogen, 3.2% nitrate
nitrogen and 24.8% urea nitrogen.

1/4 t. 4.9 pH and 130 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 4.9 pH and 220 ppm TDS
1 t. 4.9 pH and 290 ppm TDS



Peters Excel 15-5-15 Cal Mag. I threw away the initial packing (paper)
without writing down the analysis. A book lists 2
micronutrients and trace elements. This fertilizer comes dry, but I
store it partly diluted.

1/4 t. 3.2 pH and 590 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 2.9 pH and 1140 ppm TDS
1 t. 2.6 pH and 2,000+ ppm TDS

1/8 t. plus 1/8 t. of Dyna-Gro pH Up (0-0-8): 6.4 pH and 300 ppm TDS
1/8 t. plus 1/2 t. of Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt (0-0-3.7): 6.2 pH and 410 ppmTDS



Peters Peat-Lite Special 20-10-20 has 8% ammoniacal nigrogen and 12%
nitrate nitrogen. 7 trace minierals are listed.
422 lbs calcium carbonate per ton.

1/4 t. 5.9 pH and 400 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 5.7 pH and 645 ppm TDS
1 t. 5.5 pH and 1170 ppm TDS



Peters Orchid Plant Food 30-10-10 has 1.58% ammoniacal nitrogen, 2.69%
nitrate nitrogen, and 25.73% urea nitrogen.
7 trace minierals are listed.

1/4 t. 5.5 pH and 80 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 5.3 pH and 140 ppm TDS
1 t. 5.2 pH and 270 ppm TDS



Schultz 19-31-17 has 4.2 ammoniacal nitrogen, 1.4 nitrate and 13.4 urea.
1/4 t. is the recommended dilution.

1/4 t. 6.3 pH and 120 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 6.3 pH and 230 ppm TDS
1 t. 6.3 pH and 500 ppm TDS



Wilder 1-3-2 has 0.4% ammoniacal nitrogen and 0.6% nitrate nitrogen.
Claims to have 30 micronutrients. 450 lbs. calcium
carbonate equivalent per ton.

1/4 t. 3.5 pH and 060 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 3.4 pH and 110 ppm TDS
1 t. 3.4 pH and 210 ppm TDS



Wonderlizer 6-25-25 (Rod McLellan) has 4.0 ammoniacal nitrogen, 2.0
nitrate nitrogen, and iron is the only trace element.

1/4 t. 5.8 pH and 290 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 5.6 pH and 600 ppm TDS
1 t. 5.5 pH and 1300 ppm TDS



Wonderlizer High Growth (Rod McLellan). The label is so old I can't read
it anymore!

1/4 t. 6.6 pH and 380 ppm TDS
1/2 t. 6.8 pH and 700 ppm TDS
1 t. 7.0 pH and 1460 ppm TDS

[The Cannarchist]

Here is the link to make it more understandable in the columns

http://www.angelfire.com/cantina/fou...apremixppm.txt