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Old 11-12-2010, 05:47 PM   #1
KingGhidorah
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HELP ph issue with bucket system

Quick layout. I have a 20 bucket system with 1 res x 2 so 2 systems for a total of 40 buckets and 2 brains. Plants are under 10 1000 w sodiums. They were just flipped yesterday. Now before i go to bed every night, i check the ph. the last two nights though i've been having major ph dips in system 2. Ph check night before was 6.1 and when i woke up ph was 4.8 Ahhh! I topped it off and got it to 6.2. When i checked it before bed it was 5.9 and about 20 min ago it was 4.8 WTF!?

I topped off w/ reg tap water but had to get out before my timer hit. Lights off until 8 tonight and my green light ran out of batteries. My two questions are: 1. What could be causing this? 2. How long can my plants survive in low ph. Water change is tomorrow.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Couple more tidbits. There are sitting in 5 g buckets, hydroto, and this is my first time.
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Old 11-12-2010, 06:07 PM   #2
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I am guessing a bacterial infection in system 2
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"In the uptake of nutrients from the soil food web, sulphur is the catalyst for carbon chemistry, boron gives us sap pressure and silicon builds the capillary action that transports plant sap. Only then can calcium, magnesium and amino acids be delivered to cell division sites for chlorophyll manufacture. As chlorophyll catches light, phosphorous transfers energy into sugar production—after which a mix of sugars and more complex products follow potassium through the silica pathways to provide energy or its storage wherever required in the plant."
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Old 11-12-2010, 06:09 PM   #3
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Is there anyway to find out for sure? And how can I cure it?
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Old 11-12-2010, 06:23 PM   #4
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there is something working the buffers in the water. could be algae, bacteria, pytium, maybe some benificial micros... try breaking the buffer. what nutrients and hows the ec(water/ level how big plants etc)?? change water and clean the system with hyox. use enzymes and keep nutrients level on the lower side
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Old 11-12-2010, 06:23 PM   #5
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I am not a hydro guy but I hear SM-90 is supposed to do the trick
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"In the uptake of nutrients from the soil food web, sulphur is the catalyst for carbon chemistry, boron gives us sap pressure and silicon builds the capillary action that transports plant sap. Only then can calcium, magnesium and amino acids be delivered to cell division sites for chlorophyll manufacture. As chlorophyll catches light, phosphorous transfers energy into sugar production—after which a mix of sugars and more complex products follow potassium through the silica pathways to provide energy or its storage wherever required in the plant."
Hugh Lovel
Old 11-12-2010, 06:31 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monseigneur Stroganoff View Post
there is something working the buffers in the water. could be algae, bacteria... try breaking the buffer. what nutrients and hows the ec(water/ level how big plants etc)??
Well i just flipped today so water change is tomorrow and new nutrients will be added. As of now the plants are on flouranova. I currently have a blue lab ph meter but no ec reader. Water level is at 9 inches and plants are about 2.5 feet. How long will it take to kill them in low ph?somone told me if its to low they can die in 2 hrs, is this true?
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Old 11-12-2010, 11:20 PM   #7
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Could you provide a few more specifics like amounts of nutrients and additives used?

Do you use tap water or ro?

Temperature of nutrients?

Do you have an airpump/stone? How many ltr/min used?

How do your roots look? Any color change or slime? Do they smell funny?
  • If it is indeed pythium or some form of algae, there are several ways to help get things back on track.
Hygrozyme & SM-90 have produced good results for algae control.

I prefer these two products:

Botanicare Aquashield
Aquashield Bio-fungicide Water Treatment Solution is a mixture of several strains of beneficial bacteria, including Bacillis Subtillis, Paenibacillus Polymxa, Bacillus Circulans and Bacillus Amyloiquefaciens.

GH Florashield
If root rot is present, decay will cease and new root growth will return. Fungi and bacteria will be inoculated, and signs of attack will slowly diminish, allowing plants to resume growth and flourish.

NOTE: Trichoderma is not affected by FloraShield. It is very important not to leave the FloraShield in your reservoir for more than 2 hours. Florashield is potent, so becareful when using.
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Old 11-13-2010, 05:02 AM   #8
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owch ...respiration is the bigist issue in hydro on big grows so keep on top of topping res.. Also what plant food you use ? whats the quality of water you use? how much water you lose each day or hr depending on room temp? and whats room temps?
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:26 AM   #9
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I have the same setup and had the same problem.

It was algae being eaten by beneficial bacteria and micros i wrapped the buckets with roof isolation



and all my problems were solved.

raise a bucket check for some "mud" looking residue , pass a tissue inside the bucket to check for algae.

if you kill the algae the problem will get worse because the organic residue are being eaten by the fauna.

if you are using pure RO water change to tap, because it has mg and ca and buffers and will help to get it stable.

Check for light , no light no algaes
and remember in hydro when in panic ALWAYS CHANGE THE SOLUTION !
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Old 11-13-2010, 07:01 PM   #10
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Ok first what is RO water? I assume resevoir water? If so, yes i use a 100 g res. I fill w tap add nutes and ph down and let sit for 24 hours. I circulate by submerging my drain pump on its side w/o the hose connected, its like a jacuzzi.

Each bucket has its own air stone. I top off my systems w tap and i balance as needed. Yesterday while lights were off I drained about 1/2 the brain on system 2 and refilled with tap. Both systems stayed stable up until my lights turned on. After the lights came on system 1 dropped to 5.0 and 2 dropped to 5.3. Uuugh.
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Old 11-13-2010, 07:09 PM   #11
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RO Water = Reverse osmosis
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Old 11-13-2010, 07:37 PM   #12
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Oh ok no ro for me. I fill the 100 g tank and mix nutes sits for 24 and i flush both systems and fill with new water. Now due to the drop when the lights r on makes me believe it is in fact algae. Right now lights are off until 8 pm pacific. I need to do something about this stat. Last night i rinsed the 100 g with hot water and a little anti bacterial. I rinsed it qnd dried it. I noticed my buckets have a white chalky resedue. I wiped it down last water change but its back. Is this algae?

I am under the guidence of anothrr grower but lately he's been partying a lot so getting a hold of him is ruff. He wants to add the new nutes tomorrow but i need to do something about these dips today. Should i flush the system and fill with tape water for the day? And is it smart to start covering my two brain buckets?
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Old 11-13-2010, 07:39 PM   #13
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Old 11-13-2010, 07:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plantbuilder View Post
q1: yes
q2: yes
Thanks man, im gonna start flushing now. So juat straight tap? And how long should i let it sit before i drain and fill with new ph balanced water?
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Old 11-13-2010, 07:54 PM   #15
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Old 11-13-2010, 08:01 PM   #16
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Yes i add ph down. My tap water is 6.7. I just drained one system so should i fill it with tap and flusj right away?
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Old 11-13-2010, 08:10 PM   #17
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Old 11-13-2010, 08:42 PM   #18
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6.7 even during flower?
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Old 11-13-2010, 08:57 PM   #19
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Old 11-13-2010, 10:59 PM   #20
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Well the guy i work for is telling me to keep it between 5.8 and 6.0 because its optimal for the plants. He uses another system but gets good yield out of it. Plus he's the investor in all this so its hard for me to argue it when he has a 3 year exp on me. Where can i read more about this system?
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:22 PM   #21
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:23 PM   #22
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:29 PM   #23
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:35 PM   #24
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:44 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingGhidorah View Post
Well i just flipped today so water change is tomorrow and new nutrients will be added. As of now the plants are on flouranova. I currently have a blue lab ph meter but no ec reader. Water level is at 9 inches and plants are about 2.5 feet. How long will it take to kill them in low ph?somone told me if its to low they can die in 2 hrs, is this true?

Did you double check your PH with GH PH drops? Or another pen?
I found the Blue Lab PH pen to be a piece of shit.
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:58 PM   #26
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Also, since you have no ec meter, how much flora nova did you put per gallon and what other elements did you add to your recipe?
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