when harvesting please give me reasons why should leave leaves on/off plant when hanging!!!!!!!!!!

[big toker]

please tell me as whole bunch of dudes have told me i should do this do that, should i trim leaves off plants then hang or should i hang them up as one comes om tokers tell me peace .........................

[Green Supreme]

When my plants are done there are no fan leaves left. I hang the whole plant for 2 weeks, then trim off into jars. I have taken the the hang process faster, but that is what I prefer. Peace GS

[Lrus007]

i trim wet and dry on screens

[spaceman]

what leaves?

[Brick Top]

please tell me as whole bunch of dudes have told me i should do this do that, should i trim leaves off plants then hang or should i hang them up as one comes om tokers tell me peace .........................


There are various schools of thought on that subject. This will at least in part explain one of them.



Certain plant functions do continue during drying and into curing, at a reduced rate of course, but they do continue.

When it comes to plants, cut down does not equate to death or dead in the same manner as an animal or a human being. All life functions do not end, they do not all cease to continue to perform certain functions, certain tasks. The functions slow down and continue to slow until they do cease, but it does take some time, which differs, depending on the type of plant and the conditions is it under.





(The info below was trimmed since much information given was a how to guide and seemed to me to be superfluous information since that is not the topic, or at least not in full. It is not just about how to dry and cure but instead if leaves should be left on for drying.)


A Good Article On Drying And Curing

Drying and curing cannabis properly will yield the most THC-potent smoke. When dried and cured improperly, potency can diminish substantially. The level of THC in a plant is determined by its genetics. Proper drying and curing will keep the THC level as high as genetically possible. It does not increase potency.

A little background on what happens inside and outside the harvested drying plant will help you understand why proper drying and curing are so important to good quality dope. Drying evaporates most of the 70-75 percent water content in fresh marijuana. Drying also converts THC from its non-psychoactive crude acidic form to its psychoactive pH-neutral form. Once dry, THC-potent marijuana can be smoked and you will get high. Every THC molecule must shed their moisture content before they are fully psychoactive.

In other words fresh green marijuana will not be very potent.

When you cut a plant or plant part and hang it to dry, the transport of fluids within the plant continues, but at a slower rate. Stomata, small openings on leaf undersides, close soon after harvest and drying is slowed since little water vapor escapes. The natural plant processes slowly come to an end as the plant dries. The outer cells are the first to dry, but fluid still moves from internal cells to supply moisture to the dry outer cells.


When this process occurs properly, the plant dries evenly throughout. Removing leaves and large stems upon harvest speeds drying, however, moisture content within the “dried” buds, leaves and stems is most often uneven.

Quick drying also traps chlorophylls and other pigments, starch and nitrates within plant tissue, making it taste “green” burn unevenly and taste bad.
Taste and aroma improve when these pigments break down.

Slow even drying – where the humidity is similar inside and outside the foliage – allows enough time for the pigments to degrade. Hanging entire plants to dry allows this process to occur over time, about 3-4 weeks at 50-60 percent relative humidity and a temperature range of 60-70 degrees F. (15-21 degrees C.) The large outer leaves also form a protective sheath around buds. This protective foliage shields resin glands on buds from rupture and bruising. Removing large leaves and stems upon harvest saves time. This is what most growers do, because fresh supple leaves are easier to work with than dry leaves. When you are looking a manicuring 5 kilos, you make it as easy as possible! However, this process often causes uneven drying and keeps moisture inside the foliage.

This is why it is important to “cure” the “dry” marijuana.Curing lets the plants continue to dry slowly. The first week of curing affects potency in that it removes moisture within the bud evenly, so that virtually all the THC is psychoactive. Curing also allows buds to dry enough so that mold does not grow when it is stored. A well-cured bud will also burn with an even glow.Note: Rough handling and friction from fondling hands will bruise and knock off resin glands. Even with proper drying and curing, brutal handling of harvested marijuana will diminish THC content.



Curing

Even though the plants appear to be dry, they still contain moisture inside. This moisture affects taste and potency.

To remove this excess moisture, curing is necessary. Curing makes the bud uniformly dry and converts virtually all THC into its psychoactive form.


http://michiganmedicalmarijuana.org/...ng-and-curing/


Curing

Curing is a process employed to naturally enhance the bouquet, flavour, and texture of marijuana. Curing does not lower potency when done correctly, although poor curing methods often result in some less of THC.

Curing is not an essential procedure, and many growers prefer the "natural" flavour of uncured grass. Sweet sinsemilla buds usually are not cured.

Curing is most successful on plants which have "ripened" and are beginning to lose chlorophyll. It is less successful on growing tips and other vigorous parts which are immature. These parts may only lose some chlorophyll.

Curing proceeds while the leaf is still alive, for until it dries, many of the leaf's life processes continue. Since the leaf's ability to produce sugars is thwarted, it breaks down stored starch to simple sugars, which are used for food. This gives the grass a sweet or earthy aroma and taste. At the same time, many of the complex proteins and pigments, such as chlorophyll, are broken down in enzymatic processes. This changes the colour of the leaf from green to various shades of yellow, brown, tan, or red, depending primarily on the variety, but also on growing environment and cure technique. The destruction of chlorophyll eliminates the minty taste that is commonly associated with green homegrown.

[monkey5]

Brick Top, Thank you for the post! Good stuff, for them who do not dry & cure this way, already! How have you been doing? Good to see you around & posting! Hope your flowers are the best! monkey5

[nuggdigger]

what leaves?

where did they go? when? and why?

inquiring minds want to know ;)

peace

[Green Supreme]

I feel he is stating that if the cannabis is properly flushed, so there are no nutes left, their will be no leaves. They will have yellowed and fallen off already.This has been my experience anyways. Peace GS

[spaceman]

yes sir in my best pirate voice...

[Brick Top]

I feel he is stating that if the cannabis is properly flushed, so there are no nutes left, their will be no leaves. They will have yellowed and fallen off already.This has been my experience anyways. Peace GS


Should cannabis plants actually be; "properly flushed?" Some do not believe what is considered; "properly flushed" to be proper, as in what is best for plants and for production.


There have been a lot of debates about flushing and there is a lot of misunderstanding about it in general. Flushing has its place in gardening and in the real world (other than MJ forums) is referred to as leeching

First a bit from Sensi Seeds with links verifying,,,

From an administrator at Sensi Seeds

"Advanced - Flushing

A critical look at pre-harvest flushing

Pre-harvest flushing is a controversial topic. Flushing is supposed to improve taste of the final bud by either giving only pure water, clearing solutions or extensive flushing for the last 7-14 days of flowering. While many growers claim a positive effect, others deny any positive influence or even suggest reduced yield and quality.

The theory of pre-harvest flushing is to remove nutrients from the grow medium/root zone. A lack of nutrients creates a deficiency, forcing the plant to translocate and use up its internal nutrient compounds.

Nutrient fundamentals and uptake:

Until recently it was common thought that all nutrients are absorbed by plant roots as ions of mineral elements. However in newer studies more and more evidence emerged that additionally plant roots are capable of taking up complex organic molecules like amino acids directly thus bypassing the mineralization process.

The major nutrient uptake processes are:

1) Active transport mechanism into root hairs (the plant has to put energy in it, ATP driven) which is selective to some degree. This is one way the plant (being immobile) can adjust to the environment.

2) Passive transport (diffusion) through symplast to endodermis.

http://www.biol.sc.edu/courses/bio102/f99-3637.html

http://www.hort.wisc.edu/cran/Publications/2001 Proceedings/min_nutr.pdf

The claim only ‘chemical’ ferted plants need to be flushed should be taken with a grain of salt. Organic and synthetic ferted plants take up mineral ions alike, probably to a different degree though. Many influences play key roles in the taste and flavor of the final bud, like the nutrition balance and strength throughout the entire life cycle of the plant, the drying and curing process and other environmental conditions.

3) Active transport mechanism of organic molecules into root hairs via endocytosis.

http://acd.ucar.edu/~eholland/encyc6.html

Here is a simplified overview of nutrient functions:

Nitrogen is needed to build chlorophyll, amino acids, and proteins. Phosphorus is necessary for photosynthesis and other growth processes. Potassium is utilized to form sugar and starch and to activate enzymes. Magnesium also plays a role in activating enzymes and is part of chlorophyll. Calcium is used during cell growth and division and is part of the cell wall. Sulfur is part of amino acids and proteins.

Plants also require trace elements, which include boron, chlorine, copper, iron, manganese, sodium, zinc, molybdenum, nickel, cobalt, and silicon.

Copper, iron, and manganese are used in photosynthesis. Molybdenum, nickel, and cobalt are necessary for the movement of nitrogen in the plant. Boron is important for reproduction, while chlorine stimulates root growth and development. Sodium benefits the movement of water within the plant and zinc is neeeded for enzymes and used in auxins (organic plant hormones). Finally, silicon helps to build tough cell walls for better heat and drought tolerance.

http://www.sidwell.edu

You can get an idea from this how closely all the essential elements are involved in the many metabolic processes within the plant, often relying on each other.

Nutrient movement and mobility inside the plant:

Besides endocytosis, there are two major pathways inside the plant, the xylem and the phloem. When water and minerals are absorbed by plant roots, these substances must be transported up to the plant's stems and leaves for photosynthesis and further metabolic processes. This upward transport happens in the xylem. While the xylem is able to transport organic compounds, the phloem is much more adapted to do so.

The organic compounds thus originating in the leaves have to be moved throughout the plant, upwards and downwards, to where they are needed. This transport happens in the phloem. Compounds that are moving through the phloem are mostly:

Sugars as sugary saps, organic nitrogen compounds (amino acids and amides, ureides and legumes), hormones and proteins.

http://www.sirinet.net

Not all nutrient compounds are moveable within the plant.

1) N, P, K, Mg and S are considered mobile: they can move up and down the plant in both xylem and phloem.
Deficiency appears on old leaves first.

2) Ca, Fe, Zn, Mo, B, Cu, Mn are considered immobile: they only move up the plant in the xylem.

Deficiency appears on new leaves first.

http://generalhorticulture.tamu.edu

Storage organelles:

Salts and organic metabolites can be stored in storage organelles. The most important storage organelle is the vacuole, which can contribute up to 90% of the cell volume. The majority of compounds found in the vacuole are sugars, polysaccharides, organic acids and proteins though.

http://jeb.biologists.org.pdf

Translocation:

Now that the basics are explained, we can take a look at the translocation process. It should be already clear that only mobile elements can be translocated through the phloem. Immobile elements cant be translocated and are not more available to the plant for further metabolic processes and new plant growth.

Since flushing (in theory) induces a nutrient deficiency in the rootzone, the translocation process aids in the plants survival. Translocation is transportation of assimilates through the phloem from source (a net exporter of assimilate) to sink (a net importer of assimilate). Sources are mostly mature fan leaves and sinks are mostly apical meristems, lateral meristem, fruit, seed and developing leaves etc.

You can see this by the yellowing and later dying of the mature fan leaves from the second day on after flushing started. Developing leaves, bud leaves and calyxes don’t serve as sources, they are sinks. Changes in those plant parts are due to the deficient immobile elements which start to indicate on new growth first.

Unfortunately, several metabolic processes are unable to take place anymore since other elements needed are no longer available (the immobile ones). This includes processes where nitrogen and phosphorus, which have likely the most impact on taste, are involved.

For example nitrogen: usually plants use nitrogen to form plant proteins. Enzyme systems rapidly reduce nitrate-N (NO3-) to compounds that are used to build amino-nitrogen which is the basis for amino acids. Amino acids are building blocks for proteins, most of them are plant enzymes responsible for all the chemical changes important for plant growth.

Sulfur and calcium among others have major roles in production and activating of proteins, thereby decreasing nitrate within the plant. Excess nitrate within the plant may result from unbalanced nutrition rather than an excess of nitrogen.


Summary:

Pre-harvest flushing puts the plant(s) under serious stress. The plant has to deal with nutrient deficiencies in a very important part of its cycle. Strong changes in the amount of dissolved substances in the root-zone stress the roots, possibly to the point of direct physical damage to them. Many immobile elements are no more available for further metabolic processes. We are loosing the fan leaves and damage will likely show on new growth as well.

The grower should react in an educated way to the plant needs. Excessive, deficient or unbalanced levels should be avoided regardless the nutrient source. Nutrient levels should be gradually adjusted to the lesser needs in later flowering. Stress factors should be limited as far as possible. If that is accomplished throughout the entire life cycle, there shouldn’t be any excessive nutrient compounds in the plants tissue. It doesn’t sound likely to the author that you can correct growing errors (significant lower mobile nutrient compound levels) with pre-harvest flushing.

Drying and curing (when done right) on the other hand have proved (In many studies) to have a major impact on taste and flavor, by breaking down chlorophyll's and converting starches into sugars. Most attributes blamed on unflushed buds may be the result of unbalanced nutrition and/or overfert and unproper drying/curing."



Just a little food for thought about plants being; "properly flushed" the way most people define; "properly flushed."

[c-ray]

I agree that running straight water at the end should really be referred to as leeching, but in the plant what we are looking for is self-cannabilism, ie the plant has run out of food in the substrate and soil solution and instead must look within for the nutrients it needs to reach complete maturation.. that is what I would call flushing

[Green Supreme]

I think we just have differing ideas on what finished product should be. For me taste and potency are most important and yield, not so. This "Leeching" if you prefer, achieves this goal by making the plant use up all stored nutes. This stress, I feel, causes the plant to produce more trichomes. So the "Leech" allows me to achieve both goals taste and potency. The fact there are no live fan leaves left makes trimming easier too. These be the reasons I do what I do. Peace GS

[memyselfandi]

Usually i don't flush just start adding water lowering the EC level,when i start doing this isn't a scientific method when i see the explosive grow as stopped i start lowering the EC slowly.
Last grow i used ripen because i had to finish my harvest earlier didn't notice a better taste.
i only flush if i had a overfed problem.

[Brick Top]

I agree that running straight water at the end should really be referred to as leeching, but in the plant what we are looking for is self-cannabilism, ie the plant has run out of food in the substrate and soil solution and instead must look within for the nutrients it needs to reach complete maturation.. that is what I would call flushing


I said that for years, but is that really what is wanted if it creates imbalances that stops certain metabolic processes that if continued would allow the plant to continue to function better and produce more?

Now I tend to think that weening a plant down to the bare minimum of what it needs to be able to continue all needed important functions is the better way to go rather than starve it into self cannibalism where those needed important functions cease.

[Green Supreme]

Catabolism is my goal. Nothing left in the plant, means there is less over all mass. Less mass with the same trich count means more trichs/gram. That also sounds good to me. Peace GS

[spaceman]

human idea of what perfect in a plants world! I tend to agree with gs the "leeching" has been great for me aswell much better product, a flush wont do much good for a couple weeks if you are already over ferted in my opion alot of plants are way over ferted for too long, the plants need to be yellow at the end even the inside sugar leaves turning yellow if you do this at the right time you dont lose huge amount of yield what you do gain is herb that is superior to most any finished product i have tested.Its a choice of energy into yield and mass or trichromes, but to each a zone you dont know if you never tryed. If your weed is not white ash it is probably over ferted. the whiter ash the better....i dont see imbalances when i flush for 4 or 5 or 6 weeks the plant eats in balance if things are proper and they yellow out and me thinks closer to what nature intended, but yes you can push a plant to the end and get better yield but the quality will never be as good.my nuts peace...

[Brick Top]

Catabolism is my goal. Nothing left in the plant,

The question is do you really get that like you think you do? Certain processes stop due to imbalances, certain elements cannot trans-locate so they just remain where they are, trapped and unable to be used up as they are believed to be.

[Green Supreme]

My product speaks for itself. Gimme some time and I will show you. I have had a much easier time convincing folks, in this manner. Feel free to ask about. Many folks all over the world have sampled. In short, yes I believe this has happened in my work. Question is do you feel its possible to adequately remove the elements etc. by not doing what we speak of? Peace GS

[memyselfandi]

gs you flush with RO water or tap ?

the times i flushed with RO i had magnesium deficiencies

[Green Supreme]

I bubble my tap water in a 20 gallon pail for 24 hours with 2 nice air pumps and airstones. Peace GS

[Brick Top]

My product speaks for itself. Gimme some time and I will show you. I have had a much easier time convincing folks, in this manner. Feel free to ask about. Many folks all over the world have sampled. In short, yes I believe this has happened in my work. Question is do you feel its possible to adequately remove the elements etc. by not doing what we speak of? Peace GS

If you read the piece I posted, and checked the links for verification, you would know that you are not actually removing all you believe you are removing. If is just not possible too be done because of the imbalances created and the halting of some metabolic functions and the inability for some elements to trans-locate to then be used by the plants. If not used, that means they remain. If they remain that means you are not actually removing them.

The key to dealing with what remains is a long slow drying process followed by a long slow curing process where the remaining elements seen as unwanted transform into different elements that then do not take away from the final product.

[spaceman]

dont buy it slow cure is not the way/ you should be able to smoke it 3 or 4 days off the line and have it burn nice and white ...weed does change with a cure but if it burns dark it will only lighten up abit, highs are much stronger the fresher the buds is, just need to be done the right way{fresh eyes} if it is clean and white there is a huge difference, in flavors and high enjoy ability, gs will show you i know he has taught and changed the quality of my medicine thanks.

[spaceman]

actually i would love to see a piece of "leeched"buds from gs or someone who leeches like him in a GCMS compared to someone with a couple week flush my bet would be on there still being stuff in the couple week flush, but it is different when you set up for the cannabilization.

[Brick Top]

dont buy it slow cure is not the way/ you should be able to smoke it 3 or 4 days off the line and have it burn nice and white


I would like to know how that is pulled off, what the needed drying conditions are, because that goes against everything I have experienced in nearly four decades of growing.

[spaceman]

i know it is great to learn new things!

[Brick Top]

i know it is great to learn new things!

It is ... but then what I read is opposite of all the decades of experience I have had taught me and everything I have ever read, and I am talking about from credible sources and not just claims people make.

[spaceman]

well this aint out of a book it is real experience so i dont know what to say, the end product speaks for itself, i guess we should right a book...try it you wont be sad, every plant is different so it may take you a run or two to dial it when you do i know you will see, It is the one thing that has improved my quality. in a industry of gimick shits. remeber this is not just a normal flush seedsman haze puff puff pass...

[Brick Top]

well this aint out of a book it is real experience


That is where I an unable to wrap my head around it.

Plant biology says it is impossible so I cannot understand how it can happen as claimed.

Sieve tubes conduct the products of photosynthesis, sugars and amino acids, from the place where they are manufactured, a "source", meaning leaves, to sinks where they are consumed or stored.

Elements in sinks that are strictly storage location rely on their degree of mobility and are either mobile, meaning retranslocated from old leaves to new growth under all conditions. Variable Mobility, meaning retranslocated from old leaves to new growth only under some conditions and immobile, meaning not retranslocated from old leaves to new growth under any conditions.

When a metabolic imbalance is created trans-location of elements is extremely limited and or halted completely depending on the element and that means they are incapable of movement to locations where they would be used. It means they would be trapped, locked in their storage locations. That being the case I just do not understand where they go, how they go and how they exit a plant.

I think this is a case of something performed/done giving a certain positive/likable result, but the dots connected as to how and why the final result were reached, how it is explained, are incorrectly connected making the explanation as to how and why inaccurate. Not meaning the results being inaccurate, but instead the how and why explaining the results being inaccurate.

[spaceman]

well the leaves all die and fall off, as too weather there is anything left inside on a cellular level{buds}, i am sure there is, what we are talking about is black rubber toby balls herb{in my experience is from over fert} and white clean burning herbs, so maybe you are reading abit deep here.try for yourself..thats all..

[Brick Top]

well the leaves all die and fall off, as too weather there is anything left inside on a cellular level{buds}, i am sure there is, what we are talking about is black rubber toby balls herb{in my experience is from over fert} and white clean burning herbs, so maybe you are reading abit deep here.try for yourself..thats all..


I might have to ask for some real details, a step by step how to and give it a try. I am never above trying something at least once. Heck, that is the only way to find out if you like something or not.

I would only want to make sure I did it right so if by chance I ended up with different results it wouldn't be because I was not positive on how it is done and figure it is all bunk when it could have just been some error made on my part.

But if it is done how I think it is done, it is how I always used to do it, but did end up with different results.

But I'm game to try it once or twice anyway regardless of what actually occurs or does not occur within the plants.

[Green Supreme]

I have a funny story for you Brick Top. A close friend of mine in real life, is known to many as Marihuanaman{He was co Accused with Marc Emery}. He is ,what I will say, classically trained in the manner you speak of.

On a side note I hang my plants to dry for a week in a room at 70 degrees, then trim off into jars. At 4 days the nugs are dry enough to roll and puff.

Back to the story. I took 4 day hanging nugs of Wunderkush down to his work. I rolled it and we puffed. About 1/2 way I asked what he thought and he said it was awesome. I told him it was only 4 days hanging and he looked at me with total disbelief. He didn't want to call me a liar, but had never heard of this before. He was shocked and I said why. I asked why other people couldn't do it if we were doing it now? I totally changed the way he looked at finished product right there.

Now if my leeching is trapping things in, ask your experts why mine will burn with a white ash and taste not green at 4 days and why they have to cure for 2 months. You see, there are many volatile terps that affect the buzz, that have evaporated before the nugs are even dry. So long cures miss that. I would like the terp buzz of the fresh nugs and to be able to experience at other times, the long hang time{The best purpose for curing if you ask me} of cured weed. I mean why not have both if you can?


Like you I have been growing weed many years. Ordered my first beans from A'dam in 86 from the S.S.S.C. I have read all the info too and took from it what I needed to start figuring things out for myself. I realized that yield was the hang up for good herbs and once I could get past yield as a goal, I would begin growing better herbs. Most peoples first goal is yield, well let me tell you often the best yielding plants are not what I want to be smoking. For many years I heard organic growers tell me how organic pot tastes better and burns cleaner. I thought the clean burn was genius. Let me say though, I have rarely puffed clean burning organic. Vapor, C-ray and Cannarchist are the ONLY ones so far. So I started shooting for a clean burn. Less food meant better taste and cleaner ash. Proofs in the pudding and you do seem like one of the types that needs to try for himself to believe.

How's this, you take one plant next time. Pure water only for the last 3 weeks for indica or 5 weeks for sativa. Hang it as I mentioned and tell me what you think. Would love another honest opinion, over more stuff regurgitated by a guy that hasn't tried, from people reading from books and not experimenting with plants. One of my mission statements is "Changing the color of cannabis, one grower at a time". Peace GS

[Brick Top]

Proofs in the pudding and you do seem like one of the types that needs to try for himself to believe.

The results you get, what occurs when smoked, are not really at all what I am questioning. I believe what you say about that. Where I am not sold is on your explanation as to how and why it occurs. It just doesn't match up with scientifically proven plant facts.



How's this, you take one plant next time. Pure water only for the last 3 weeks for indica or 5 weeks for sativa. Hang it as I mentioned and tell me what you think. Would love another honest opinion, over more stuff regurgitated by a guy that hasn't tried, from people reading from books and not experimenting with plants. One of my mission statements is "Changing the color of cannabis, one grower at a time". Peace GS

I will give it a shot, but not for a while. I have decided I want to move so since I will have Realtors and prospective buyers wandering through my home I tend to believe it would be a rather injudicious thing for me to do to by have a crop growing when they will be traipsing through my home.

When I try it, it will be on a sativa, and I mean a real sativa. I am not a fan of indicas and not a fan of all that many crosses that have anything more than the very least possible amount of indica in them.

I am one of these people who like to believe that the garden of Eden was filled with sativas and only after the fall when weeds first began to pop up around the world indica strains came into existence.

To me indicas are a curse Lucifer put on the toking world.

Not that I am actually a believer or anything, but using such a description makes for a good way of stating how strongly held my feelings are.

Sativas rule.
Indicas make you drool.

[c-ray]

from what I understand it's all about the ratios (of nutrients).. everything is connected ie plants function well when calcium is in a certain ratio to magnesium and boron, when potassium is in the right ratio to magnesium and phosphorus and phosphorus to sulfur..and when all the traces are at the right levels and when there is the right amount of nitrogen/protein/humus and when the cations (Ca, Mg, K, Na & H) are at adequate/optimal levels for the CEC (cation exchange capacity) of the substrate

ie it's all about balance

[spaceman]

good story wish the wonder kush was still around that was some strong ass weed...

[memyselfandi]

The flush science is a bit like trying to reproduce another grower technics.

There are ton's of variables in the way GS method works wonders for him, probably if i try to reproduce it i will get different results. The EC level during the bloom, the strain
, the temperature the humidity etc.

Never the less i think i will give it a go, i am testing the defoliation technic with excellent results, the first time i read about it found it very strange, well it works for me.

[Green Supreme]

I must admit, my plants ferts never go above 1200 ppm. Peace GS

[nuggdigger]

thankyou for sharing that GS..for up till now i could have assumed this was for poop feeders..
also appreciate the 3 week indies/ 5 sats comment.

:peace:

[spaceman]

salty or poop same concept...

[nuggdigger]

in terms of the plant yes!
for the media relevant to growing style..not necessarily..

for example..think i could flush perlite faster then dirt?
think i could over water perlite??..etc. does perlite hold the same cec?
are salt ferts more mobile in the media?..etc..
peace.

[Green Supreme]

More school science. Hows that workin out for you? Peace GS

[spaceman]

perlite is inert from what i have found. as far as the cec i think cray was buggin a perlite fellar a few daze ago wonder what he found?
does the plant pick salts or organics availability?
dont now but organics is what i use and others salts and we get results that i would say are what we are looking for, degrees most likely,i am sure depending on your growing style and medium things will have to be tweeked every grow is different what we are looking for is similar end results, you can take a few path me thinks.It has taken me about 3 years to get to where i am happy with most of my plants in organics but i still have a few that need dialing in so it is strain, condition, yada yada, i think thats the idea.... peace

[memyselfandi]

And there is an method of flush that will drain the plant almost completely dry. I have never tested it, the guys from GHE do it ( well they sell nutrients so it make some sense) to overfed the plant EC to 2.6 - 3.0 to shutdown the roots.

[c-ray]

perlite has no CEC, it's a drainage aid

[Green Supreme]

It was likely in here. Peace GS

[Landry]

Debates on flushing? lol. Maybe if you only grow for commercial purposes where you don't give a flying f*** about your consumers smoking chemicals and other elements. And that loosing very little yield is a big deal to you.

There is no debates on flushing. It helps rinse out the un-natural elements that helped grow your plants artificially. Flushing occurs on a regular basis in nature. Not to mention that nutrients are already much much broken down in organic forms.

Besides it gives a much better taste. Absolutely no effects on potency.