Subs Super Soil 101

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I am making up a new batch of Super soil and I get so many questions on the way I do it I thought I

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Here are the amounts

2- 1.5 Cubis Feet bags Roots Organic ( Or Any high quality Potting soil
2- Large bales Sunshine Mix #4
3- 25# bags Organic Worm poop
5# Steamed Bone meal
5# Bloom bat Guano
2.5# Blood meal

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I open all ingredients and place inside the baby pool. This one has been used so many times it has 2 big holes in it but I just sweep up the mess.

I place the Sunshine in first chopping it up with a rake then I place the powdered nutrients in a circle around the mound. Then goes in the bat poop and then the potting soil. The Azomite is a granular product I found at a local feed shop for replacing trace elements in soil after a crop. I use this mainly when I replenish my soil but this is a 100% fresh batch. Then it

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***Disclaimer**
This soil is really hot and you cannot plant seedlings or clones directly into it. When I do my final transplant into #10 pots I fill each pot

[hydrorascal]

Sure answers a whole lot of those 'what do I use' questions. Nice, clear post !!

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I found a new product I forgot to report on. Believe it or not Miricle grow has a new Organic line of bone meal thats not direived from cows.

The Flintstones is very acurate and in the first pictures I am in an open garage with lots of ventalation and being carefull to not breath any dust.
These pics are from an indoor mix and not only do I have a dust mask on but I wet down the dry products to reduce airborne.


:)

[c-ray]

a real canadian uses a hockey stick to mix his soil ;)
nice post...way to produce

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Once the soil has cooked or sat for a month or so were ready to transplant into the final pots. I use #10 nursery pots now that will hold a full 7 gallons of liguid. I 7 may not sound bigger than a 5 but let me tell you these slanted #10 pots hold a bunch of soil!
So I store the soil in large cans and then use the same kiddie pool I mix in to transplant in. Helps keep the mess down. I fill each pot

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It

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Fill in the area and smooth over the soil. I like to lift pot and bang in once on the concrete to settle it all down then I pack it down a bit with hands. Make sure soil is slightly under pot rim so water will not run over. Always keep labels straight removing tag from pot and placing into new container 1 at a time. Crossing moms is a major nono. Load into room and take a look at all the hard work!


Next in the Series:
Plant Bondage

Stay Tuned :)
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Ok to show you what this type of mix is capable of lets look at Apollo-13 from MP's clone. many of you grow this clone and know how tricky it can be to make her happy. This plant was fed only water and one shot of Biostimulants at day 35 ( B,cuzz and Sweetleaf) I think youd agree she looks tuned up?

To me nothing brings out the true magic of a Cannabis plant like Organics and lots of different types in the mix. I ma not saying anything bad agist the hydro buys Pistils accomplishes incredible results and NL420's Hydro super skunk was still the best tasting weed I ever smoked that i didnt grow but for me a good soil takes out the guess work once you get your recipe tricked out.



Sub

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Ok so I get alot of questions on this one to.
Jill simply takes the lower shoots which we concider sucker shoots the day we go 12/12 from main plants.
She dips them in Vita Grow Rooting solution ( Formally Woods) but we get equal succes with cheap as take root powder.
The crucial part is temperature. I find between 72-78 are perfection and if you can hoover at 75 you can show roots in days using simple rapid rooter cubes.
I like the rooters cause you only have to not let em dry out. It dosn't really seem you can over wet them.
You have to spread then open with a nail to insert cutting though it can be a PIA.

Our clones usually are placed in the vegetable keeper for a few weeks so they don't get to big while the bud room finishes.

I took the fresh cut with the single root straight from the plant with scissors and handled it roughly.
6 days boom.

WE use 2 cheap wallmart shoe bins stacked atop each other.
We moniter temp and our cloning location is determined by temps.
Currently its in our office as it just worked out that way.
Siple flos and simple set up.

Distilled Water

I don't recommend new growers delete mothers if we didnt get roots we could loose an intire decade of work. Our strains are backed up with TGA and we never loose a set of clones. Knock on wood.

lets take a look

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From Clarke on Rooting

Rooting

A knowledge of the internal structure of the stem is helpful in understanding the origin of adventitious roots.

The development of adventitious roots can be broken down into three stages: (1) the initiation of meristematic cells located just outside and between the vascular bundles (the root initials), (2) the differentiation of these meristematic cells into root primordia, and (3) the emergence and growth of new roots by rupturing old stem tissue and establishing vascular connections with the shoot.

As the root initials divide, the groups of cells take on the appearance of a small root tip. A vascular system forms with the adjacent vascular bundles and the root continues to grow outward through the cortex until the tip emerges from the epidermis of the stem. Initiation of root growth usually begins within a week and young roots appear within four weeks. Often an irregular mass of white cells, termed callus tissue, will form on the surface of the stem adjacent to the areas of root initiation. This tissue has no influence on root formation. However, it is a form of regenerative tissue and is a sign that conditions are favorable for root initiation.

The physiological basis for root initiation is well understood and allows many advantageous modifications of rooting systems. Natural plant growth substances such as auxins, cytokinins, and gibberellins are certainly responsible for the control of root initiation and the rate of root formation. Auxins are considered the most influential. Auxins and other growth substances are involved in the control of virtually all plant processes: stem growth, root formation, lateral bud inhibition, floral maturation, fruit development, and determination of sex. Great care is exercised in application of artificial growth substances so that detrimental conflicting reactions in addition to rooting do not occur. Auxins seem to affect most related plant species in the same way, but the mechanism of this action is not yet fully understood.

Many synthetic compounds have been shown to have auxin activity and are commercially available, such as napthaleneacetic acid (NAA), indolebutyric acid (IBA), and 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4 DPA), but only indoleacetic acid has been isolated from plants. Naturally occurring auxin is formed mainly in the apical shoot men stem and young leaves. It moves downward after its formation at the growing shoot tip, but massive concentrations of auxins in rooting solutions will force travel up the vascular tissue. Knowledge of the physiology of auxins has led to practical applications in rooting cuttings. It was shown originally by Went and later by Thimann and Went that auxins promote adventitious root formation in stem cuttings. Since application of natural or synthetic auxin seems to stimulate adventitious root formation in many plants, it is assumed that auxin levels are associated with the formation of root initials. Further research by Warmke and Warmke (1950) suggested that the levels of auxin may determine whether adventitious roots or shoots are formed, with high auxin levels promoting root growth and low levels favoring shoots.

Cytokinins are chemical compounds that stimulate cell growth. In stem cuttings, cytokinins suppress root growth and stimulate bud growth. This is the opposite of the reaction caused by auxins, suggesting that a natural balance of the two may be responsible for regulating nor mal plant growth. Skoog discusses the use of solutions of equal concentrations of auxins and cytokinins to pro mote the growth of undifferentiated callus tissues. This may provide a handy source of undifferentiated material for cellular cloning.

Although Cannabis cuttings and layers root easily, variations in rootability exist and old stems may resist rooting. Selection of rooting material is highly important. Young, firm, vegetative shoots, 3 to 7 millimeters (1/8 to

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One of the things that is very important in a garden is canopy management. There are so many ways to grow cannabis but in the US in legal medical gardens we have number restrictions. This means we have to learn to get the same yields to supply our meds from less plants. We accomplish this by employing several methods that I will cover here today. Once we have our plants topped properly with multi heads and our girls grow up a bit we should have 18-24

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I take a small drill and some twine. Drilling a hole in the rim of the pot under each branch I carefully secure the twine and gently spread open each plant. Be careful not to split the main stem and if you do so you can bind it with wire ties. It doesn

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To get a good start on this style it

[tiedye420]

subscribing this is cool sub.
tiedye420
just the brushup info im needing at this very moment,BTW-thanks

[tiedye420]

Here's the deal guys.
I NEVER run soil tests. Not anything but litmus paper a couple Decades back. Im a freaky dirt farmer what can i say. Im tired of "winging it" and wish to give them the best mix possible. I find kellogs patio plus is useful for the horticutural sand, and I like a forest based primary peat secondary type soil. It is. It's also 6 bucks a 1 1/12 cubic foot bag- and cheaper on sale at OSH..... It's my "commercial mix." I may try kellogs ammend next time i purchase soil.
I got a little tester kit for p/h,N,P,&K.
I mixed up a batch of soil .
1/3 Red topsoil from hilltop-loam available onsite when holes get dug.L.O.L.
1/3 Dark brown/black compost from streamside- major oak leaves and wormcastings produce this soil.clay/castings
1/3 kellogs "patio plus" potting soil.
Im using approx 2x2 holes. Im figuring 12 gallons- 15 gallons per hole.
My soil base has been tested,
here is what im coming up with.
PH 6.0 (seems steady there also)
N- N1- def.
P- p2 adequate (possibly even p3- seems best quality of mix as is.)
K- K2 adequate
Im going to let you guys know what I would normally wing it with for organics O.K.
1 cup guano
(high nitrogen- "from under a bridge" -suspect high phos- need furthur testing -probably the next batch of tea will be tested.)
1/2 cup dolamite lime (guesswork?)
1/4 cup epsom salt
1/2 cup bonemeal
1 cup potash
1 cup organic 5-5-5
An organic mix of manures and traces, npk 5-5-5..... Alfalfameal based,chicken manure, ect and another 5 % unavalable nitrogen...
This will be ammended monthly and the guano will be my " as needed" fert until flowering. I also like fish emulsion and they get it often,peeeewwwww.
am i forgetting anything?
(remember my black oak comosted castings are high in trace fom nature.)
I also use mollasses as a staple fert, sometimes "piranha" is added with mollasses (thanks 3b's)
If anyone could anylize my mad method and give a few pointers I would appreciate it. My current project is fairly important to my cannabis supply, L.O.L.
seriously, I'll be throwing all these things into holes in a couple of days, and any pointers from people who actually PH their soils will def. be helpful.
(edit: one thing i forgot i actually have on hand.
1 gallon perlite
(or as needed for drainage /retention.)

[vapor]

wow how things change...