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Lrus007
12-17-2009, 02:37 AM
been doing some home work.
i think many of us have this problem.
i think it comes in soil,compost and
mycorrhizal fungi products..

"When you pull a tree out of a pot to work on the roots, or to transplant it into another pot people often see a white fuzz and assume that they have beneficial mycorrhizal fungi. But without looking closely you are just as likely to have an infestation of Root aphids.
Root aphids are just like aphids that feed on the top of the plant except that they are white and leave a network of fuzzy white stuff in the middle of your roots. The seem to concentrate around the drainage holes in pots. You can tell the difference between mycorrhizal fungi and root aphids by looking carefully to see if any of that potential fungus is crawling around on the roots. If you see anything that looks like an aphid and that moves you are not blessed with beneficial fungus but cursed with sap sucking aphids.

Ridding yourself of them is not particularly difficult, but since you only know they are there when you pull the plant out for repotting it may do you well to use a systemic inseciticide a couple times during the growing season. Spraying the leaves with systemic insecticide is the long route to killing them but should work eventually, soaking in a dilute solution of insecticide (water based systemic, not oil) will be the fastest and most long-lasting method.So far, I have found root aphids on every Japanese Black Pine that I have repotted in my yard."

lot's more info here it wont let me c&p
http://www.gpnmag.com/articles/some.pdf

dunks are not going to work
will take real chems like marathon or diazinon

Lrus007
12-17-2009, 02:51 AM
more info

Three ingredients were used to eliminate the insect under the "zero tolerance" policy of the nursery.

Liquid pyrethrum concentrate was mixed into the water/nutrient mix. Pyrethrum is an organic pesticide refined from flowers in the chrysanthemum family. There are a number of brands available in nurseries and garden shops but you may have to go online to find a liquid concentrate.

Botanigard is a specific virulent species of fungus that infects soft-bodied insects. When a possible host insect brushes against the fungus spore, the spore attaches itself to the insect. Then it grows hyphae, which are simple thread-like filaments, into the body of the insect and starts feeding on the insect. When the insect dies it releases more fungus spores that are ready to germinate when they come in contact with a suitable host such as another root aphid. It is available at a few shops and online.

Beneficial nematodes are microscopic carnivores that attack all kinds of insects in all stages of growth. Once the nematodes come in contact with the insect, whether adult or pupae, it is walking dead. After the feast, the nematodes do just what you'd expect, so thousands more hungry nematodes enter the scene looking for a good meal. They are available in both garden shops and on the internet.

plantbuilder
12-17-2009, 08:09 AM
fuck

vapor
12-19-2009, 03:13 AM
niceone

plantbuilder
12-26-2009, 06:56 PM
fuck

c-ray
12-26-2009, 07:58 PM
I wonder if enzymes would work

Sicarii
12-27-2009, 12:37 AM
Are you folks finding aphids on your mothers and the grown up clones? or just on the mothers?

peace sicarii

guest
12-27-2009, 12:46 AM
The worst part is how fast Aphids can vector diseases...
Especially in hydro.

Azamax by GH applyed to the root system is quite effective, sometimes more so than it,s foliar application. My good friend works for them, i can ask for proper dilution for root application if you need it...
peace

Lrus007
12-27-2009, 02:44 AM
Are you folks finding aphids on your mothers and the grown up clones? or just on the mothers?

peace sicarii

my problem has been clones
taking to long to root and
stunted a little after rooting.
bigger plants don't show the
problem as bad. but if you
have them there everywhere.
there root aphids so not many
of them fly But they fly in the
spring/fall that's the bud cycle !!

i think a lot of peoples gnat problems
are really root aphids
i am still looking into it.

Sicarii
12-27-2009, 03:17 AM
wow, i hope nothing like that makes it to my grow. infesting my grow room would meen infesting my bedroom...

vapor
12-28-2009, 11:40 PM
diatamaceous earth does it work on them?

Lrus007
12-29-2009, 12:38 AM
diatamaceous earth does it work on them?

i don't think so. they live around holes in bottom
of the pot's. so a top dressing prob would not work.
also there a hard shell type of bug.

HATCH
12-29-2009, 03:39 AM
I Have Heard Of People Using SM-90, Or h2o2 In There Soil To Control Them Or Rid Them From The Soil, I Can't Say From Experience Because All I Run Is Aeroponic Systems, But Here Is The SM-90.

$22.79 new


Amazon.com






4,080 seller ratings GrowCo SM-90, 1 liter Natural Pest Control
SM-90 treats both insect and fungal infestations. ... Applied directly to foliage, SM-90 discourages and eliminates many common pests, including aphids, ....

Add to Shopping List

guest
12-29-2009, 03:44 AM
Sm 90 is a good suggestion and many people praise it<s use for such purposes, but i can tell you that it will not be sufficient in this case.

Try azamax, it has anti feedant properties and they will also not be able to reproduce and they will have a hell of a hrad time damaging your plants.
When your crop is done, throw out everything containing medium, old root parts, leafs etc...Clean everything thoroughly with Virkon.
Make sure your mothers are not infected.
cheers.

Lrus007
01-01-2010, 04:52 AM
first thank you pb for 18 pages to read :tup:

ok they come in many types all small.
black,white,green,yellow ect.ect.
they are tuff and breed fast, born live and
pregnant. also some will fly and jump.
they have 4 stages of life so seems only
a systemic type poison will kill them.
so the poison for these pest's is
merit 75 wp about $50 on ebay for 2 oz.
out of all my reading it seemed to work
for most that tried it.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Imidacloprid = merit 75 wp

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phylloxera
much like this bug ^^^
still looking into it

c-ray
01-01-2010, 04:38 PM
check this out

from http://www.safesolutionsinc.com/Enzyme_Cleaner_Pest_Control.htm
How Enzyme Works

Insects make formidable opponents because they are protected by strong exoskeletons - hardened shells that cover them like a suit of armor and have the locomotion of a tank. It is the exoskeleton that has most challenged pest control - until now. Enzyme is the key.

Because an insect's exoskeleton is a hard shell made of non-living material, it does not grow in size with the insect's development. Therefore it is necessary for all insects to shed their exoskeletons several times during the course of their life. They accomplish this by using enzymes they create naturally to split open their exoskeleton and thus grow larger. It is during this molting phase that an insect is at its most vulnerable - susceptible to drying out or drowning since the hard shell that normally would protect them has been cast off.

The surface of every insect's exoskeleton is covered with a waxy, water-repellant patina known as the cuticle. This outer coating protects the insect from harm, and has long been an obstacle for pesticide's effectiveness - the chemicals must penetrate the cuticle in order to affect the insect, so pesticides employ a variety of volatile solvents, toxic dusts or light oils in order to cut through the cuticle and thus deliver the poison into the insect interior.

The solution to cracking the cuticle of an insect's exoskeleton was discovered through the observation of insect entomology - insects employ enzymes to escape their exoskeletons. By utilizing cultured enzymes that mimic those found in nature, a natural form of biological pesticide can be produced that has the ability to dismantle the armor of an insect instantly.

Enzyme Cleaner digests insect's waxy cuticle on contact and dismantles their exoskeleton - effectively forcing insects into immediate molting in which the protective shell is stripped.

plantbuilder
01-01-2010, 08:14 PM
fuck

c-ray
01-01-2010, 08:26 PM
careful as not all enzymes are the same, even batch to batch as they can degrade
I have tried a few in various battles against mites

DOZEE
10-16-2010, 11:14 AM
Im in hydro buckets with wool and lava rocks ...Use organic pymethren dunk,5 min later use warm water dunk to wash out. 2 days after azimax dunk ,7 days after another azimax dunk, then 10 days again.. if its from environment use tree and shrubb on non flowering trees and plants in yard .. dont be afraid to use pymethren dunk again & continue preventative treatments of azimax
In bloom use 1 million nematodes per 1000w light .. best of luck they are bastereds