...soilless mix suggestions.

[will_i_am]

Setup = 8 x 7 x 7 (poly room made inside of another room)
2 x 600w HPS Horilux bulbs w/ dit. ballast
temps 70 - 80 F
Humidity 40 - 60
no CO2
ph of chemicals/ h20 = 6.0 - 6.5
Plantlife nukes = (whole product line) micro, grow, bloom, fulvic & humic acids, B+, exc...

Medium = 1/3 petemoss, 1/3 perlite, 1/3 vermiculite in 1 gallon pots.


....I'm using an easyclone'r for the kids (aeroponics w/ ph of 5.5 - 6.0, using 1/4 strength solution of weeks one feeding), then transplant into 8oz. cups of FoxFarm's Forest for one month...I then transplant into one gallon pots of my "homemade soilless mix" (1/3 pete, 1/3 perlite, 1/3 vermilite) ...then to bloom.

...once in bloom things start to go wrong...plants light'n dramatically like an acidic issue...however, I'm still getting great yields....

...any suggestions on how and why this is occuring?

[Green Supreme]

Might need to add some lime to your mixture. Good luck. Peace GS

[will_i_am]

...I see. I read the dolomite lime bag...and in mentions that it needs to be applied months ahead of time, for it takes time for it to become active, is this correct? ...would it be any benefit to add the lime now that I have my ladies 4 weeks into bloom?

[Green Supreme]

I use a product called rapid lime. Yes I believe top dressing even at this point may be helpful. Just water it in with normal waterings. Good luck. Peace GS

[will_i_am]

...awesome! Much thanx dude! I'll keep you informed.

[will_i_am]

I got the "quick lime" from Lowes, got the small bag. My run off was in the 5 range, so...I believe your diagnoses was pretty accurate...says it treats 1,000 sqf.....so, I'm wondering, how much "top dressing" would you say to use in my one gallon bags? ...thankx again dude.

[Green Supreme]

Try a tablespoon at first. Peace GS

[vapor]

tablespoon per gallon is a good rule.,.,

[will_i_am]

...and thankx again Green Surpeme, and thankx for the reassurance there Vapor...ya'll rock!

[will_i_am]

...the older leaves are still yellow, however, the new growth has made a recovery.
...should I remove the pale older leaves? ...I'm at the end of week #5,on an 8 week strain(big bud)

...starting my flush. I've been flushing with pure ro h2o, ph= 6.3
...any good tricks during flush in a soilless mix?

[Green Supreme]

If they are really bothering you you can pick them off. no tricks here just pure water for least 3 weeks. Good luck. Peace GS

[c-ray]

imho one only needs to remove leaves if they causing the plant to suffer, like when the plant is using it's energy to fight off pests and/or disease, ie the leaves have bugs and/or detrimental fungi

[Green Supreme]

Word C. Peace GS

[will_i_am]

...makes very good sense to me. I figured that would be the wise thing, to leave the leaves. I once was told that the plant will drop the leaves when shes done with it and not to interupt the natural process...just didn't know after such a ph shock....thankx buds! I'll drop some pics soon of the yield from the abused ladies, once all my signs of neglect are gone...LOL, I'm ashamed! :( ...never seen it come'n! DAMN THAT CAL!


...I have a nice Trainwreck and Master Kush that I veg'd for 4 months that are ready for harvest... I plan on clip'n tonight, I'll take a few good pics for you dudes, so.....stay tuned bros! :joint3:

[guest]

Hey,

You want either dolomite lime or calcitic (agricultural) lime, microzied is ideal but powdered is fine.

D.lime and c.lime start to effect pH immedilty upon becoming wet. However, the increase in pH is slow until it is minerilized futher which means it effects pH for many months. From what I understand d.lime or c.lime will not raise pH past 8 or so. A few weeks to month after inital whetting the pH should be good. After all, Pro Mix and Sunshine Mix use both those limes (I believe). If using organics and using a soil food web, lime will rasie pH faster due to much increased mineralization. The smaller the lime particles the faster the mineralization.

Quick lime is hydrated (burnt) lime I think. That stuff is phytotoxic and hard to apply in small enough doses while not increasing pH too far. Hydrated lime will raise pH past 11.

HTH

[c-ray]

quick lime aka calcium oxide (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quick_lime) and hydrated or slaked lime aka calcium hydroxide (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calcium_hydroxide) are different and are phytotoxic when applied direct to soil or plants but have special desirable properties when they are used when making compost at 10-20 lbs per cubic yard...quick lime is better for compost heaps made mainly from animal manure and hydrated lime is better for plant based compost heaps

[guest]

Hey c

(You know much/all of what I am about to post, I am writing for those who don't know)

I have to disagree. Lime should not be applied to compost piles, especially quick lime or hydrated lime. As I understand, the only time lime should be applied is when mixing d.lime or c.lime with a feedstock with pH < 4.5 or so, but not the whole pile.

The initial pH of pile should be 5.5-7.5. Over pH 7.5 and N volatilization increases a lot. Also, over pH of 8 and many fungi are hindered.

If you are referring to CMC it suggests clay-loam and rock powders at that same ratio to the whole pile, but not lime. I don't think Bio-dynamic does either, or am I mistaken?

According to CMC volcanic rock powder like azomite is ideal. The clay is for its CEC and to bond with Ca and humus, forming an aggregate to increase humus content (CMC's "clay-humus-crumb"). The loam is to aggregate the clay. Clay has a CEC of 20-30 meq/100 g, while zeolite is a few hundred meq/100 g. I use zeolite in place of clay-loam. All told, I apply the following: zeolite, azomite, gypsum and collodial phosphate (for the C/P ratio which needs to be under 100:1). Gypsum is only applied to manures, or other sources of ammonia.

My piles % carbon is usually around 35-40%, its low due to the minerals and nitrogenus feestocks I add. Ideally % carbon (by dry weight) should comprise 30-70% of the pile according to Woods End. Elaine says 80-95%, but she doesn't like CMC or other high input composts.

However, if you are referring to N volatilization (of ammonia) one should apply 6-10% gypsum, and/or a high CEC material like zeolite. The Ca from the gyspum bonds the ammonia so it does not become volatile (a trick from the mushroom compost industry). I forget off hand but I think its changed to ammonium nitrogen. The addition of Ca, and S to a lesser degree (both from gypsum) will lower voilitaztion greatly. Apply >6% zeolite alone and the violatiztion is reduced by up to 90%.

The zeolite will also form the "clay-humus-crumb" of humus management from CMC (traditionally in CMC clay-loam is used). However, the addition of gypsum, and azomite increases Ca which helps bond humus to clay, thus I use the term "Ca-clay-humus-aggregate". I also apply a generous amount of humic acid powder and liquid when moistening and re-moistening the piles. The extra humic acid bonds with the zeolite and Ca, forming very, very high levels of humus and other benefits. The CMC humus score should read of over 90%, easily, I assume. I am in contact with the Luebkes US liaison, he told me the info about clay-loam aggregation (a CMC 'secret') and that when he used benonite clay powder in place of clay loam (at half the application rate) his compost humus score was 100. That's as high as it goes, and the highest he has ever seen. Zeolite has way greater CEC than bentonite clay powder... :)

Here's a few good reads:

1. "Good compost made better: The Rodale Institute takes

[will_i_am]

...here we go, as promised. My mouth watered the whole time I clip'd these ladies!


Ms.Train Wreck = http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=63&pictureid=496
http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=63&pictureid=483
http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=63&pictureid=485
http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=63&pictureid=511
http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=63&pictureid=495
http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=63&pictureid=494
http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=63&pictureid=491
http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=63&pictureid=484
http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=63&pictureid=497

Ms.Master Kush= http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=64&pictureid=507
http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=64&pictureid=507
http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=64&pictureid=500
http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=64&pictureid=498
http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=64&pictureid=509
http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=64&pictureid=508
http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=64&pictureid=505
http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=64&pictureid=503