View Full Version : Vertical Organic soil garden
Microbeman
08-09-2008, 10:28 PM
Used wooden bins stacked up and built on angle to provide soil access; soil used for several years and replenished microbially and with organic matter and with travelling composting worms (trapped out after eating residue); Used only AEM, ACT, fish hydrolysate. No the brown leaf tips are not fertilizer burn.
purplehaze2
08-10-2008, 03:26 AM
thats bad ass.
HATCH
08-10-2008, 09:52 AM
Clean & Professional!!!!!!!,,,,,,,Great Job!!!!,,,,,,,Looking Forward For Some More Up-Date's!!!!!!!!
Green Supreme
08-10-2008, 07:28 PM
Seen something like this on another board by a guy called Heath Robinson. Is that Tims Indica? Thanks for sharing man. Peace GS
Microbeman
08-10-2008, 10:25 PM
Seen something like this on another board by a guy called Heath Robinson. Is that Tims Indica? Thanks for sharing man. Peace GS
Yes it was. This was back pre-2005 and is no longer current so- sorry no updates will be available.
My philosophy behind using bins (I started with pots) was to have the critical mass integrity for continued life in the soil. I had mushroom colonies in conjunction with the plants and all sorts of 'bugs' including rove beetles who love to eat thrips. Also had populations of persimilis and other beneficials.
Keep your soil alive.
kindlydank
08-11-2008, 12:26 AM
Nice setup!!
Approximately how much soil is there per plant? It looks like the troughs aren't much bigger than standard window boxes. Also. how big do you let them get before you flip 'em to 12/12?
Thanks
kindlydank :bongin:
Microbeman
08-11-2008, 03:08 AM
Each box is approximately 1.8 cubic feet with around 6 plants per box. Flipped at about 8 to 10 inches.
The critical mass of soil and the lumens of light per exposed stem (flower), I believe has more importance than the amount of soil per plant. The soil became better and better over time, not being disturbed outside of digging small holes at planting, adding and trapping out worms and applying AEM during fallow time (2 to 8 weeks) between plantings/crops.
ludacris
10-08-2008, 03:09 PM
Wow i have been searching for soil verticals for quite a while now. Seems like everyone is on the hydro tip nowadays. Just a quick question, if anyone can be bothered answering.
Would you get more yield from a vertical setup of this sort, than a horizontal setup in deep flowerbeds?
This is the first vertical i have seen with flower beds on top of each other WOW, must be packing some weight.
nuggdigger
10-09-2008, 02:58 AM
you get more yield in a vertical garden due to more square footage available for plants and plant canopy. The vertical bulb is 360 degrees, while most horizontal setups have a hood. More light space means more plant space.
also worth mentioning, vertical arrays diminish less over distance due to longer light sources..
vertical lights have better side plant penetration, top lighting only gets to the tops if the plants are dense at all..
the non hooded lamps heat up less and the heat is allowed, even encouraged to rise up the middle of the column...
verticals preform better in SOG style, so harvest are faster due to less vegging time, but they do have higher plant count, of course no one says you can't grow fewer bigger plants with more veg time;)
there are other reasons woth mentioning, but its supper time...
maybe others can chime in:D
peace
ludacris
11-02-2008, 05:11 PM
may i ask, whether this layout would yield better than a horizontal flower bed system? or this method, just to save horizontal space?
nuggdigger
11-02-2008, 06:00 PM
:kitty::shocked::confused:^^^
full on vertial gardens can get 2.0 x the yield per watt compared to a flat garden
full on verical gardens get 5.0 x the yield per sq. meter compared to a flat garden
so that would be yes and yes, but not just to save horizontal space.
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