what's in yer brew?

[c-ray]

my latest brew:


spun 90 gallons deep well water in the vortex brewer for 24 hours...kept it spinning
removed 2 gallons of vortexed water and used the water to blend with 2 lbs of em fermented organic tofu and 1 lb of em fermented flaxseed, blended in several batches until smooth
added about 1.5 cups of sundried seasalt which brought the ppm up to 1100 from a base of 250
added one 680g box general hydro rare earth (pyro clay and humates) and let mix for about 20 minutes until left and right barrel ppm was the same
removed one glass of water to use in seed soaking experiment
added 2 liters of worm castings, pushed through a kitchen strainer
added back the tofu-flax liquid and strained through a kitchen strainer
added 1 cup of spanish river carbonatite, 1/2 cup of maerl and 1/4 cup of greensand
added about 1 cup more sundried seasalt to bring the ppm up to 1700
spinning in the vortex brewer for an additional 24 hours


what's in yer brew?

[purplehaze2]

dam ! now thats a magic mix right there.can I get all that stuff at my local nursery or do you have to order from hydro store? I dont have a well,so can I use filtered water or tap water and airate over night.

[guest]

@ PH2,

I don't mean to distinguish your excitement (cuz' it's great) but IMVHO you should just concentrate on getting soilless down and brewing quality ACT. There are many things you can do to tweak your ACT and make it better then how it comes...even though it's great as is. The stuff C-ray is doing is pretty advanced and requires special items, time and A LOT of understanding. For example the em fermented tofu would is a whole process in an of itself.

Soon you'll be fermenting like a mofo' but ACT is a whole world to itself and a very broad world...IMVHO, get a good grasp on ACT and then you can apply that to AEM...microbes are microbes...



@ C-ray,

I'm acutely in the process of re-doing my list, scheduling, etc. I'll put something up tonight or tomorrow. I like your mix, what microbes are you getting from the tofu, natto? And what about the flaxseed? I suprised I don't see any kale in there?

BTW, is that river carbonatite micronized? Have you used the Maerl before? If you added azomite and EM ceramic powder that would be the micro-rock-fossil powder SAEM from hell! :headbang: lol

[guest]

A quick thought too would be the addition of volcanite as it is very paramagnetic and has four different volcanic, paramagnetic crushed rocks including basalt, lava sand, zeolite, granite, and Texas greensand.

[purplehaze2]

yes gojo I know, I wouldn't try it just curious,I will stick with the act for sure, IF he gave me a complicated answer I would of ran for the hills heheheh.

[The Cannarchist]

50 gal chemi drum with large airstone and air pump

10lb of alfalfa pellets
20 ltrs sheep manure composted
5 gals of dried seaweed from beach ground up in vitamixer
10 ltrs composted llama poo
300 ml metanaturals 3-3-3
600 ml metanaturals 1-5-5
350 ml metanaturals liquid calcium
250 ml epsom salts
50 ml metanaturals 16-0-0
250 ml organic unsulphered molasses
5 gal pond water

This shit ROCKS

I refill drum 2 times then restock

[c-ray]

dam ! now thats a magic mix right there.can I get all that stuff at my local nursery or do you have to order from hydro store?

the sundried seasalt, tofu and flax seed came from the health food store

in the states you can get a real good brand of sundried seasalt called Desouza from trader joes I believe (comes in brown bottles)...I used "La Paludier" brand of sundried sea salt...there is also Celtic Sea Salt brand and probably others

it is important that the salt is grey and still somewhat moist (not white and dry), which means it still has living bacteria, phytoplankton, etc from the sea and all it's magical qualities are intact....

here's a link for the salt I am using (the coarse stuff) -> http://www.eco-natural.com/greysalt/salt.html ...I just a 5 kilogram (11 pound) bag from the health food store here for $21

the carbonatite, maerl and greensand were added as a calcium and other mineral source for microbes...but you can use powdered rock dust instead

the pyro clay (GH Rare Earth) I got on liquidation a year ago from the hydro store, at the time I had no idea what I was going to do with it

the worm castings came from the worm bin in the back yard but you should be able to find some at a garden store locally

if you watch this thread you will see that every brew I make is going to be a little different...but I will always start by spinning the water for 24 hours before I add my ingredients
the ingredients should contain a source of microbes and some food for the microbes
feed the microbes and the microbes will feed the plants



@ C-ray,

I'm acutely in the process of re-doing my list, scheduling, etc. I'll put something up tonight or tomorrow. I like your mix, what microbes are you getting from the tofu, natto? And what about the flaxseed? I suprised I don't see any kale in there?

lots of bacteria in that brew, little bits of fungi and amoeba, hardly any protozoa...
I am using tofu and flax because they are reasonably high in nitrogen and quite high in proteins and amino acids, which are quite useful to plants
amino acids are great for building resins
there is some rain in the forecast, which will help move everything in the brew deeper into the soil where it is most useful



BTW, is that river carbonatite micronized?


the spanish river carbonatite ( http://carbonatite.com ) is pretty raw, mostly powder with little rocks and bits of mica and little crystals
I just noticed their website is down...here's another link for info -> http://www.arvanadesign.com/carbonatite/index.html




Have you used the Maerl before?

I have used the maerl before but not in a tea, just wanted to make sure there is lots of calcium out there in the fields

[c-ray]

This shit ROCKS



now that's what I'm talking about!!
nice brew....you got llamas around there? lucky bastard!!

[purplehaze2]

Thanks C-ray I really think Im starting to grasp this stuff, I have made the dueleys own tea brewer, but I have a 55 gallon drum just sitting there, so IM going to make the vortex brewer, I already have the pumps and air pumps from all the hydro shit I use to have. My buddy a couple acres over has a llama farm he said he has 150 llamas on about 200 acres. I just realized I have 7 local nurserys with inn bike ridding distance of each other ,this is a rich farming area, so I should be set.Man this stuff is so much fun compared to hydro,Im so sick of hauling water up and down the stairs,and once you make your soil your done just add your teas. I can really put things closer together too. With hydro your stuck with just what you have plumed,or cut. Man My tomatoes are going to love me.

[c-ray]

cool bro
how many watts are them air pumps...you'll need a total of 80 or so watts worth of air pumps to move 55 gallons in a vortex brewer like the one I built

[spaceman]

you ever use cranberry juice or gogi berry juice for the sugar parts?

[guest]

vapor,

yes, they are used to make AEM but I think cray and I may be on to something much better...inulin. More news soon...

[guest]

OK,

Here my all-in-one 'extras' mix that I'm gonna dilute at like 1:100, 1:250, or 1:500, or weaker...opinions on this???

I am bubbling this for 48 hours with tons of air and a few water pumps. The pumps are sitting inside of my 400u bag so they don't get clogged. I'm not going for microbes really, i'm going for the extras.

temp is about 85 degress


2 gallon dislitted water


2 gallon pond water


2 cup EM plus


2 cup blk strap molasses (82% brix)


2 cup humic acid (8% humic acid content)


2 tsp yucca extract


2 tbl primordial Himalayan sea salt


2 tlb EM clay


4 tsp citric acid


4 tps malic acid


4 tps tarantula (AN benifical bacteria)


5 cup earthworm castings


3 cup bokashi


1/3 cup kelp meal (cold processed)


1/4 cup rice single grain baby cereal (flake)


1/4 cup oatmeal baby cereal (flake)


1/2 cup hydrolyzed fish


1/2 cup nutritional yeast


1/2 cup blue-green algae


1/4 cup spirlina


1/4 cup maerl (micronized)


1/4 cup psyllium husk powder


1/4 cup marshmallow root


1/4 cup slippery elm tree bark powder


1/8 cup white willow tree bark powder


1/8 cup white oak tree bark powder


1/8 cup yohimbe tree bark powder


1/8 cup aloe vera powder


1/2 cup chamomile flower powder


1/2 cup yarrow leaf and flower powder


1/2 cup comfrey leaf


1/4 cup nettle root powder


1/2 cup nettle leaf


3/4 cup horsetail powder (source of silica)


1/8 cup valerian root powder


3 cup alfalfa meal


Ok , I don't think I forgot anything...lol

[guest]

MOre,

For macro/micro ferts they are getting MetaNaturals this OD season, I want to be in cool group with cannarchist and PH2. And MetaNaturals dones't need to be bubbled if you have a good microherd and its' made to be used by and promote the microherd...

When I mix the MetaNaturals (at bottom) I will add in:

1:250 or 1:500 "all-in-one" mix (above)

1:100 ACT

1:100 AEM


I'll list what Im currently putting in my ACT and AEM in a day or two...



Ferts:

2 gallon distilled water


2 gallon pond water


50 ml metanaturals grow 3-3-3


30 ml metanaturls bloom 1-5-5


20 ml metanatural calcium


20 ml epsom salt


50 ml Kelpak (1:300)


40 ml Alg-a-mic (1:375)


15 ml hydrolyzed fish


20 ml blk strap molasses


10 ml yucca extract


60 ml humic acid (1:250)


10 ml bat guano P


10 ml bat guano N



Ph
I don't test or bother whit Ph when using organics. I let the microbes, AM and the plant regulate that. The plant an actually excrete chemicals that will change the rhizophere's ph to what it needs...crazy :loco:

ANd ph up and down will kill your microherd faster then shit, so don't use um! organics shouldn't need to be ph adjusted if there is a good microherd and if there is AM infection it's even better!

[guest]

info:

Why citric acid and not ascorbic acid? Well, main reason is i'm out of ascorbic acid but also I've read C.acid may be better for LAB (lactic acid bacteria) which is in EM and ACT:


Effect of Ascorbic Acid in Comparison to Citric and Lactic Acid onListeria monocytogenesInhibition at Refrigeration Temperatures

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science?_ob=ArticleURL&_udi=B6WMV-45S90TK-1F&_user=10&_rdoc=1&_fmt=&_orig=search&_sort=d&view=c&_acct=C000050221&_version=1&_urlVersion=0&_userid=10&md5=794729ea2808647d1d5991629f2872e3
[QUOTE]Abstract
This study analysed the effect of pH (3.0

[purplehaze2]

well your inn gojo,this site is the cool group heheheheh. Gojo thats crazy you can put all that stuff in a tea and it wont hurt your plants,wow it just gets deeper and deeper. you know were all a family here man if you ever need anything let me know bra. PH2

[guest]

cool, :cool2:

Well I'm not sure my "all-in-one" mix won't hurt my plants. All those items are known to be good for plants or microbes or AM or Energy. And I used normal to strong ratios for everything but not too strong. ANd that's why I want to diliute to 1:250 or 1:500...the mix could be phytotoxic...

The tree barks tend to be phytotoxic so that's why they are in smaller quantities...

As I've never used this mix before I'm gonna use is pretty diluted. IN organics less is more. So even at 1:500 (or maybe even weaker) I should get a lot of the benefits I'm looking for such as:


micro ferts (Ca and Mg, even though Ca is really a macro...:rolleyes:
silica
microbe benefits
AM benefits
Robert Nelson biodynamic preparation concepts
Vinny Pinto AEM, FPE and SAEM preparation concepts
and other things

[purplehaze2]

ahh shit the nightquill is kicking inn.im feeling a little fuzzy.

[guest]

cannarchist,

I heard that metanaturals is not making their 16-0-0 anymore...

[c-ray]

yesterday's brew:

spun 90 gallons deep well water in the vortex brewer for 24 hours...kept it spinning
added 1.5 gallons of fermented rabbit manure extract*
spun for another 10 minutes to properly mix it all then immediately applied to plants and soil

https://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=31&thumb=1 (https://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=30)


*the fermented rabbit manure extract was strained from a 5 gallon batch of rabbit manure bokashi, which I made by mixing 1/2 litre of EM and 1/2 litre of molasses into about 2 gallons of water and adding it to the bucket of rabbit manure it was almost full
then I put an airtight lid on it and let it sit in the sun for a week

https://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=29&thumb=1 (https://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=29) https://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=30&thumb=1 (https://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=30)

[guest]

Way cool!
respect.

[guest]

hey,

So I'm gonna do a foliar spray of the following. Im also making a FPE of the following w/ some extra's but I'll a thread for that next week or so...when the AEM is done...


1 gal = 3785 ml
1 gal /5 = 757ml
1 gal /10 = 379ml
1 gal /15 = 252ml



The ratios are approximate, as close to the 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and whole ML as I could make them while staying very close to the ratios...



1 gallon distilled h20


12.75 ml kelpak (1:300) [Ecklonia maxima; S.African kelp]
https://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/showthread.php?t=4712


6.25 ml Alg-a-Mic (1:600) [Ascophyllum Nodosum; Norwegan kelp)
Directions call for 2tsp/liter but I want Kelpak to be main item and I don't want to hurt plants with too much...


5 ml blue-green algae "Mana" (1:750) [Aphanizomenon flos-aquae; US algae from Oregon]
[1]


5 ml EM Plus (1:750)
I don't want the EM to overtake the effect of the kelpak so im only using a little


1.5 ml Blk Strap molasses (1:2,500)
This is microbial food for EM and anything in kelpak that's alive...


1.5 ml hydrolyzed fish (1:2,500)
This is a spreader/sticker, not quite a surfactant but still useful and it's a great microbial food for EM and anything in kelpak that's alive.


15 ml humic acid (1:250)
This is the key ratio and should always be used in foliar, it is like organic from of IPA and does organically what DM Penetrator does chemically.


1 ml yucca extact (1:3500)




[1]Blue-Green Algae:
100% pure blue-green algae cyrstals (Aphanizomenon flos-aquae), one of nature’s most perfect foods. This unique blue-green algae grows wild in the spring-fed pristine waters of Upper Klamath Lake, Oregon. It is harvested and dried using the patented state-of-the-art Refractance Window™ and Fresh-Dried™ (never frozen) methods in order to preserve the integrity of the algae.

AFA contains the broadest array of nutrients of any known algae, including vitamins, minerals, rare trace elements, essential fatty acids, including Omega-3, phytonutrients, active enzymes, amino acids, proteins, and complex sugars.nutirents, auxins, etc...



[2]IPA:
Improves the systemic transportation of nutrients into plant cells...I think this is what is in DM Penetrator but that's only an educated guess. THe product by Rush called "Xcell", "Xcite", etc have IPA, etc...they were supposed to be the next big thing and they sure do work (i've tested on cannabis) but they are easy to over use and everytime i used foliar it hurt my plants...

[guest]

and here's my final mix for tomorrow:



2 gallon distilled water


2 gallon pond water


30 ml Gojo's "all-in-one" brew (1:500) Does anyone think I should go stronger?
https://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/showpost.php?p=75399&postcount=13


60 ml EM Plus (1:250)


50 ml metanaturals grow 3-3-3


30 ml metanaturls bloom 1-5-5


20 ml metanatural calcium


30 ml epsom salt (7.5ml per gal = 48ppm; so 30ml in 4 gal should still give 48ppm as well right? Or would it be 192ppm???)


50 ml Kelpak (1:300)


40 ml Alg-a-mic (1:375)


20 ml blue-green algae (1:700)


15 ml hydrolyzed fish


20 ml blk strap molasses


10 ml yucca extract


60 ml humic acid (1:250)


10 ml bat guano P


10 ml bat guano N

[guest]

oh ya,

The calcium should be added to the water first, before other items. As it is with all sources of Ca.

and to remove chlorine and chloramines I'm adding .04 gram ascorbic acid to 4 gallons of water and stir for a few minutes. The ascorbic acid will remove chloramines too. But you can use any organic matter and chlorine will attack it and then be gone from the water. I use yucca extract or humic acid (just a little bit, say 1-2 ml per gallon) when I don't have ascorbic acid. But I don't think other things except ascorbic acid will remove chloramines but I'm not sure...

and to clean a brewer you can use hydrogen peroxide but that loose it's 'strenght' fast. I like to use citric acid from beer brewer at like 1-2 tsp per gallon and run brewer for 20-30 min. Then empty and rise out with clean water and then refill and run again for like 20-30 min.

[Lundin]

not much of a brew.....yet


-aqaurium fish water EC 0.5
-tricodermia 1/4 teaspoon per 10 liters
-fish poop (fish mix)
-alg-a-mic 1,5ml per liter

plan is to add bat guano pellets, willow tree bark and some mycorrhizal but I need some directions

[guest]

Hey buddy,

your starting off good!


Other things I would add:

I would definitely suggest you add a source of compost or EWC, but it has to be fresh and not bagged in a sealed plastic bag! If not then get some "Tarantula" from Advanced Nutrients (it's got like 57 diff beneficial bacteria).


Organic black strap molasses at 0.25-0.5% to volume of water when used with hydrolyzed fish. If only using molasses then 0.5-0.75% is better.


Rock powder at 2-5tsp/gal - azomite, pyrophyllite clay (aka GH "rare earth", etc), bentonite clay, rock phosphate, EM clay, etc, etc


For water use 1/2 distilled or RO and 1/2 a natural source of water. I like to use pond water from a still and shaded pond. But make sure it's got a lot of fish, frogs, plants, etc...just make sure it's a "living" pond. If your making a huge brew then just RO or well water should be good as distilled and pond water may be too much work...but it's worth it!


Lots of air and movement! If your going for ACT (microbes) then you need to be concerned with DO, air bubble size, etc. For just tea you need LOTS of air and good movement of water...and I like to keep temps around 80-85 degrees but that's just me...



Willow:
I assume your using willow tree bark for salicylic acid? That acid is phytotoxic at high levels, that's why chitosen and harpin is a better choice for starting SAR. But if you using the bark (as I do) try to get it in powder form. Don't add too much, see my post above for an idea on quantity...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salicylic_acid



Fish poop:
What is it? Is it poop, ala "guppy-ponics" or is fish byproduct, ala fish emulsion? If it's fish emulsion try to get hydrolyzed fish instead. Hydrolized fish is bacterially and enzymatically digested by anaerobic bacteria (the bacteria emit the enzymes). Hydrolyzed fish is much better for fungi and has higher amount of inherent (though dormant) microbes.


Mycorrhiza:
What product are you using? I ask as some have tricoderma :( and most have helper bacteria which are needed.

Do not add to tea. THey need to be applied directly to roots. THe only way a tea with myco (AM) is good is if your' doing a root spray when transplanting, they coats the roots.

If you transplanting then just sprinkly some in bottom of hole where roots will be.

If plants are already in media then poke a hole to take a PVC pipe, thinner is better, like 1/8"-1/16". Also get a wooden rod (dowel) which is the same outside circumference of the PVC pipe.

push dowel into media, down into roots
put PVC pipe into hole you made with dowel
pour myco spores (AM) down the PVC pipe
pour a little water[1] down the PVC pipe to get all the spores
if your myco product doesn't have bacteria: Make ACT from GOOD compost, EWC, etc and apply (ACT should have helper bacteria which the myco's need)


[1]for extra benefit use ACT with a surfactant.



Tricodermia:
Don't add it unless you need it...which you prolly don't if you in a soilless mix or even soil if it's healthy soil. THe tricodermia will eat your benifical fungi...

(From yahoo CT group)
[QUOTE]Re: trichoderma question
Posted by: "caleb.summers"

I might just sit back and let Dr Ingham answer this one, but I'm
pretty sure that putting trichoderma in a tea brew would be pretty
detrimental to your fungal numbers.

Trichoderma is popularly used as a fungal disease-suppressant .

Trichoderma species parasitize other fungi.

They are present in most soils, but only in spore form. They wake up
when there is an outbreak of a fungal disease, but they are otherwise
not really active in healthy soil.

It is also true that they do form beneficial relationships with
plants, but they also wipe out all the other fungi around. We want a
diversity of thousands of different species of fungi in the soil, not
just one.

If we wake them in an ACT brew, they WILL seek out other fungi and eat
them. This means that the trichoderma will parasitize the beneficial
fungi in your tea.

I found this article to be helpful:

Harman, G.E. (2006). "Overview of mechanisms and uses of Trichoderma
spp.". Phytopathology 96: 190

[Lundin]

thanks gojo very good pointers. i will give this first see whats up then go for hydrolyzed fish, the emulsion is allready smelling good here

the willow is powder form yes

what about the guano?

http://shop.mrgrowgear.no/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/23239ca232033b9bde79b191456cb259.jpg

[guest]

Hey,

what the NPK of the pellets? DO you intend to use it as a main macro nutrient?

It sound like seabird guano if it's pellets, are you sure it's bat guano? And as i'm really anal about things I would put on a dust mask and goggles and run the pellets through a food processor to break them up into finer powder...though they will break apart in water anyway.

I'm not the best person to ask about guano as I've never used them as the sole source of maco nutrients. If you just want to add guano (I do this too) I would suggest 1-2 tsp per gallon. N guano can be hot and can hurt plants...

MOst guano's call for like 1-3 tbl per gallon as the main macro fert but I'd be hesitant to use it over say 1 or 1.5 tbl per gallon...

HTH :)

[spaceman]

vapor,

yes, they are used to make AEM but I think cray and I may be on to something much better...inulin. More news soon...


ok i understand this.,., i am just wondering if cray or anyone else has used these other sugars .,. and if it changed anything in the finish? peace