Pro Mix "Mycorise"...does it contain mycorrhizal fungi?

[guest]

Hi all,

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but you don't have any mycorrhizal fungi if you relied upon Premiere. The product is called "Mycrorise" and it contains the beneficial bacteria "Bacillus subtilis", not mycorrhizal fungi . They get away with it by misspelling the word mycorrhiza...I complimed to the company that it's false advertising and many ppl think there getting ecto and/or endo myco's.

[Lungus]

Good info gojo. When I used promix I used the HP with Micorize thinking I was getting Michorrhiza. Now that I'm in coco, I bought an innoculating powder that's supposed to have michorrhiza and other beneficials, I no longer have the package it came in so I can't give you an entire rundown.

[guest]

Thanks. Sorry to head about that! I had to argue with the hydro shop owner before she'd believe me...I should've just not told them but I feel bad for ppl who are getting shafted!

It's important that your myco mix has the correct kind of mico's...most due but it's worth it to read this thread (it's in depth but interesting):
https://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=4571

[smokinbasser]

I use rooters mycorrzia it has both endo and ecto plus 6 other beneficial bacteria. $11 a lb

[guest]

Hey SB,

yea i've used that before and the results seemed fine, alone the lines of other good spore inoculum...but recentlly I'm more of the feeling that infection with live hyphae, roots and spores is the best way to go...more on that topic in the comming months when I get my VAM cultivation ebb/flow tray setup...:farm:

http://www.hortsorb.com/DIEHARD_General_Discussion_On_Mycorrhizal_Inoculan ts.asp

Types of Commercial Mycorrhizal Inoculants

There are three types of mycorrhizal fungi inoculates commercially available endo, ecto and ericoid. Most are available in dry form. Ecto is in spore form and endo is available as propagules, i.e., spores, root fragments and hyphae. Endo in spore form alone is a poor inoculant if you want results within 6 weeks according to research that has been published. Research has shown that endo mycorrhizal inoculants with spores, root fragments and hyphae are superior to those containing only spores. Research shows that hyphal fragments are most infective, followed by mycorrhizal root fragments and then spores. Root fragments actually contain many spores and are better at protecting spores from adverse environmental conditions compared to spores alone. Ericoid is presently is in dry form.

Reasons why spores alone are dangerous for an inoculant:
1. Spores degrade over time, even when dried
2. For some species, spores are the only infective propagules and when they degrade the inocula are effectively dead.
3. For many species in Glomus [eg. VAM], hyphae from root fragments can be up to 10X more infective than spores.
4. Root fragments, when dried, are not as susceptible to degradation as spores, especially in a formulation containing high organic matter.
5. Ergo (from 4 above), even if part of the inoculum degrades with storage, infective propagules still can be present for a longer period in a mixed inoculum formulation.

The reality of inoculum marketers today is that most are just that "marketers". Some sell a single strain of mycorrhiza mixed in with a carrier backed with all the claims thousands of research studies will support. Some sell liquids. Some sell powders. Some sell only one kind. Some sell tablets. Most sell "cocktails" containing a variety of organisms. Some have formulated for numbers. Some for results.

One company that has been in the industry for 10 years marketed a transplant product for trees and shrubs which contained no beneficial bacteria package. What were they thinking not to include such an obvious package. Most landscape materials are planted in disturbed soils. What logic is there in not including a bacteria package? Bacillus subtilla, for example, is an effective "mycorrhiza helper bacteria".

[purplehaze2]

hay lungus when you say cocoa is that the cocoa soil. Is this a step up from the regualer soil, the reason I ask is becuase eveytime I look at soil on a web page it has cocoa right next to it ,but more expensive.

[guest]

PH2,

Not that I'm lungus, and I don't mean to step on his toes...but I think you should stick with the sunshine mix you're thinking about.

Cococoir is a substrate that can be used in place of, or in combination with peat for example. Coir has pluses and minuses (like all substrates), read this thread to catch up:
https://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/showthread.php?t=4535

C-ray says coir should be used in indoor grows, not outdoor, and I agree with him.

For you, as your just getting started in "soilless" medium, I think you should stick with a peat based premix. IMVHO peat is more forgiving then coir and if go with a nice pre-mixed soilless peat based medium you do well...then later, when you have experience with growing in soilless medium like peat you can mess with coir, etc...just my 2cents! ;)

BTW. the substrates you're referring to, like sunshine mix or pro mix, are not soil, they are "soilless". :farm:

HTH,

[Celticman]

I know this is an old thread but.....
Is it correct?
Says on the package
"Mycorise

[c-ray]

Celticman you are right about the mycorise ->
http://www.premierhort.com/eProMix/Horticulture/Products/GrowingMediumTM/MycorisePro/fWhatMycorise.htm


premier has a mix with bacillus subtilis but it is called subtilex biofungicide -> http://www.premierhort.com/eProMix/Horticulture/Products/GrowingMediaCat/Biofungicide/fSubtilex.htm

[guest]

hummm...

They must have changed the formulation when they added the word "Pro". Originally it was just "mycorise", the bag didn't say "endomycorrhizae inoculant" and now I see it's called "mycorise pro". The mycorise pro is AM and is a product unto itself. Premiere adds mycorise pro (the AM) to it's existing soilless mixes. At my local grow shop the bag which said mycorise only listed Bacillus subtilis, but that was more than 6 months ago so Premiere must have wised up...?

Anyway thanks for the heads up Celticman :)

[kruger]

i 've a little question about the beneficial bacteria and i would your opinions plz ;

what is the type of water what you use with the beneficial bacterias ??

filtered water ? ( obtained by reverse osmosis)

or

basic water /hard water ? ( water tap...)


my opinion is :
if we use the hard water, the beneficial bacterias will die , the cause can be the chlorine , ammonia and all other bad substances in the water...


no ??

[smokinbasser]

It depends on what all your tap water contains but RO water although very clean is missing several minerals that cannabis needs to thrive. I am going to suggest you look into installing a whole house activated carbon water filtration system. It removes chlorine AND chloromine meaning you can use the water immediately out of the tap. The entire setup should run less than $50 total, I have two whole house filtration systems in series so I KNOW my water is clean ( as long as the cartridges are replaced each 6 thousand gallons)

[kruger]

thanks for infos , it's very interesting your system ( activated carbon water filtration system ) is it the same systems for aquariophily ?

but RO water although very clean is missing several minerals that cannabis needs to thrive.

yes i'm agree ! , but for my hydroponic crops i use the filtered water only (by RO) , and H&G nutrients, till now i've never had any troubles of nutrients deficiencies ( cross fingers lol)

i think the hydroponic nutrients are very complete today, ..maybe I can make a mistake about it .


so , have you an idea about the beneficial bacterias and the chlorine, ammonia.. ??
can they kill the beneficial bacterias ??

[c-ray]

so , have you an idea about the beneficial bacterias and the chlorine, ammonia.. ??
can they kill the beneficial bacterias ??

yes chlorine kills bacteria, that is why it is used in drinking water

[kruger]

thanks c-ray ;) ...agree with you ,

here the problem it's that the water of the tap is named "drinking water", but depending on the regions(area) the water contain more or less chlorine and ammoniac + chlorine("chloramine" in french) etc etc..

(my opinion is; depending on the regions the water is undrinkable lol)


but ..here many growers use the water of the tap with the beneficial bacterias and they say : "let the water stand for Twenty-four hours and the water is ready for to be used with the beneficial bacterias !"

I'm totally disagree with them ..

so, now i use the filtered water only .



well , thanks for infos guys !




peace

[Lungus]

but ..here many growers use the water of the tap with the beneficial bacterias and they say : "let the water stand for Twenty-four hours and the water is ready for to be used with the beneficial bacterias !"

I'm totally disagree with them ..

You shouldn't disagree with them because they are mostly right, unless the water has chloramine which doesn't evaporate like chlorine does.

[kruger]

sure, but for the chlorine only , not for amonniac + chlo ..and i think the ammoniac kill the BB too .

++

[Lungus]

sure, but for the chlorine only , not for amonniac + chlo ..and i think the ammoniac kill the BB too .

++
Remember also that chlorine compounds are added at a rate to kill bacteria in the ppm and ppb range, and couldn't even come close to killing off a microherd in an organic grow although it may stunt it's growth for a couple of hours. People freak out about chlorine but who does any of this diligence for their regular houseplants? Almost no one but the most zealous gardeners, the rest of us grow fine houseplants with regular tap water and cannabis is a lot tougher than most houseplants. Going chlorine free is the best but too much emphasis is put on it IMO.

[BigSur]

Hey SB,

yea i've used that before and the results seemed fine, alone the lines of other good spore inoculum...but recentlly I'm more of the feeling that infection with live hyphae, roots and spores is the best way to go...more on that topic in the comming months when I get my VAM cultivation ebb/flow tray setup...:farm:

http://www.hortsorb.com/DIEHARD_General_Discussion_On_Mycorrhizal_Inoculan ts.asp

From everything I have read on the subject of spores and root frags this is what I have learned: Root fragments are great, but they die very early. Spores last much longer. So if you have something sitting on your shelf for a few months chances are all the mycorrhizae that isn't spores are dead. Thats kind of cutting hairs though.

World champion growers giant vegetable growers have been using mycorrhizae with amazing results. They use this stuff called pumpkin pro. A world champion pumpkin grower put out a video of how he uses mycorrhizae. He grows indoors under grow lights first, then he transplants the plants to an outside garden and adds more mycorrhizae. From this he grows pumpkins close to a ton.

http://reforest.com/extreme_gardening.php

[c-ray]

how's it work on cannabis?
you seem to be pushing it pretty hard..can you get us some free samples?

[ThaKid]

Where'd this GoJo guy go???

[Green Supreme]

Theres a thread if ya look. Peace GS

[Parabola]

my recent experience with pro mix with mycorhize is that it really sucks compared to a good brand of coco. I might have been able to amend it to make it better but the coco is great just the way it is. Very similar growth rates to dwc and other hydro experiments in terms of vigorous growth (esp in veg).

[ThaKid]

Seems with Coco the (the bricked shit) after thoroughly flushing the dogshit outta it still i had issues with lockout and salt build up like crazy. Ive had success using the medium just a finicky biatch to prep! Almost like i got stunted slowww growth once i transplanted. Maybe its my growing error?

[c-ray]

no, it's probably the coco
canna and gh make good coco..the gh stuff is cheaper than pro-mix

[ThaKid]

my hydro shop charged me $27 for 2.8cu of promix hp and $53 american dollars for a bale!! OUTRAGEOUS!!!

[c-ray]

I paid 10 bucks per block of gh coco, which is roughly equal in volume to a 1/2 bale

[guest]

Mycorize is the fench word