View Full Version : Team Gojo 2008! (with LEDs and sexual differentiation!)
Team Gojo '08
Season's Roster
I just getting ready for this year's season and I see a few others are too...nice! I going with a few varieties this year...
-Timebomb (Texeda TimeWarp X Blueberry) - 30 of them
-Willie Nelson (Vietnamese Black x Highland Nepalese) - 4 of them thanks to a VERY kind member!
-RGD {aka "Real Good Dope"} (Northen Lights x Haze) - 5 of them
-Agent Orange (Local Orange Skunk x Jacks Cleaner X Space Queen) - 10 of them
The team!
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/4989/bothlights1fd5.th.jpg (http://img210.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bothlights1fd5.jpg)
Floro and control samples
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/4703/flordown3sg0.th.jpg (http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?image=flordown3sg0.jpg)
more floro:
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/3537/florup4nb1.th.jpg (http://img297.imageshack.us/my.php?image=florup4nb1.jpg)
180 diode, 10watt, blue LED @ 490nm and test samples:
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/9067/led2in3.th.jpg (http://img205.imageshack.us/my.php?image=led2in3.jpg)
Gotta love the blue!
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/2714/ledthree5mt1.th.jpg (http://img205.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ledthree5mt1.jpg)
Small and powerful:
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/8779/leddown6ou3.th.jpg (http://img205.imageshack.us/my.php?image=leddown6ou3.jpg)
My shiny toy!
http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/2035/ledforward7fe5.th.jpg (http://img186.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ledforward7fe5.jpg)
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/4993/led8td1.th.jpg (http://img181.imageshack.us/my.php?image=led8td1.jpg)
LETS GROW! :D :woohoo:
***NOte:
I will rant a bit in the following diatribe, but it's pretty interesting. This is just a quick intro to help explain the pics and why I'm doing what I'm doing...I'll make real threads for LEDs and sexual differentiation...errr...soon ;) . I am growing outside but sprouting inside, which is why there's pics of lights in the outdoor forum!
LED:
A really quick and dirty intro:
I'm doing a little experiment with a custom made LED. The problem with most LED is they are too weak, especially the blue ones. You want at least 10watts per LED and you NEED to light from above and below to maximize LED light usage and depth penetration for flowering.
I've been in discussion with a person who makes custom LED's for plants and he's been helping me with the math that will provide a REAL guideline for how much watts/diodes of LED you'll need to replace an HID. The math is really heavy and it's still not right, but after more thought and work I think I should be able to post a guide based on REAL data, not some half-baked, commercial advertised "UFO" bullshi*!
My Experiment:
Background:
Sexual expression of Cannabis L. Sativa is not fixed until the point of sexual differentiation[2]. Sexual differentiation happens a few weeks after sprouting[3]. Cannabis L. Sativa can be guided to one sex or the other during that time period through manipulation of the environment[4]. In general, to encourage female sexual expression you want to reduce stress and discourage high intensity growth environments.
Theory:
I believe it's possible to reduce plant stress through light wavelength manipulation. I am going to use a blue LED which creates little stress and emits the perfect level of blue wavelength for plant growth (PPF) at 490nm.
-->Problem with red photons:
Red photons (670-700nm) operate at a much higher fluctuation rate, that is, they move more quickly and are more "energetic" then blue photons. Because red photons are more energetic and more readily absorbed they increase the plants metabolism to a higher rate which increases stress overall. Red photons will heat up the leaf's inner fluid more quickly than blue photons and red photons are more "intense" on the leaf then blue photons.
Hypothesis:
By using blue LEDs with the PPF "sweet spot" of 480-490nm from sprouting until sexual differentiation (about 0-4 weeks) the sexual expression of Cannabis L. Sativa will show a greater proportion of females to males (when all other environmental factors are met).
Materials:
-(1)180 diode, 10watt blue LED @ 490nm
-(1)4' floro with (2)4' "cool white" 40watt bulbs
Procedure:
1. Environment must meet rules[5] for both test sample and control sample. Both test and control samples are grown in same room next to each other and they both get the same exact treatment to insure fewer extraneous variables.
2. Test Sample: (3) Timebomb seeds are sprouted under a new 180 diode, 10watt blue LED at 490nm.
3. Control Sample: (3) Timebomb seeds are sprouted under a new 4' floro hood with (2)4' "cool white" 40watt bulbs
4. The experiment will continue until the 5th node leaf set begins to appear...until sexual differentiation has definitely been fixed.
Sexual determination and differentiation:
A really quick and dirty intro
I'm sprouting (3) Timebombs under the LED to see if blue light has an effect on a seeds sexual expression at the time of sexual differentiation. I've found info on nearly all aspects of environmental effects on sexual determination except for data on wavelength and PPF/D. So I'm doing an ad-hock experiment with a custom 180 diode, 10watt blue LED (490nm). Blue LED's don't come in this size, only red's come this large, but you can get custom blue ones built for you.
An important scientific fact is that Cannabis L. Sativa (hemp) does not become female or male (expression) until the point when the 4th node's leaf set begins to appear (differentiation). I've been doing a TON of research on sexual determination, differentiation and expression of Cannabis L. Sativa. I've found a lot of scientific fact that disputes many of the long held beliefs in regard to cannabis and a seeds sex...namely that a seed is male or female before it sprouts...hog wash!
Please note that I am not copying the info posted by Henk from Dutch Passion, though he got most of his data from the same place I did. Except I've got more accurate and recent data, especially regarding non-usage of cytokinins. But, due to a crashed USB drive I lost a lot of the links to journals, my notes, etc, :bang: :Noooo:
There are many factors which effect sexual determination in Cannabis L. Sativa but the most important one to remember is that sex is fixed when the 4th node's leaf set is appearing. Here's a good set of easy rules:
From when you sprout until when the 5th node's leaf set starts to appear:
Low stress, lower level of nutrients, lower heat, higher humidity, less hours of light, NO CYTOKININS! (no seaweed), lower light intensity, soil/media on the moist side.
[1] Sexual Determination:
The biological system that determines the development of sexual characteristics.
[2] Sexual Differentiation:
The process of development of the differences between males and females from an undifferentiated zygote (fertilized egg).
[3] http://www.springerlink.com/content/t491042240h422v8
(NOTE: This is only one study but I have found two others which came to the same exact conclusion)
Microscopic analysis of male and female apices revealed that their reproductive commitment may occur as soon as the leaves of the fourth node emerge; the genetic expression of male and female apices at this stage has been compared by cDNA-AFLP. A rapid method for the early sex discrimination has been developed, based on the PCR amplification of a male-specific SCAR marker directly from a tissue fragment.
[4] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cannabis#Mechanisms_of_sex_determination
[5] Basic Rules: Low stress, lower level of nutrients, lower heat, higher humidity, less hours of light, NO CYTOKININS! (no seaweed), lower light intensity, soil/media on the moist side.
just curious...anyone else using LEDs here? Not the UFO crap but real LEDs?
islandgrow
04-28-2008, 10:21 PM
Hey gojo man super cool stuff Ive never used LED"s but its great that we are gonna be able to watch all this unfold. I'm really excited to see how the time bomb works out for you!, I may try them next summer. When do they finish?
IG,
The LEDs are a very interesting topic and I'm looking forward to working with them...I've got a large array in mind with red and blue 180 diode, 10watters from above and below. A hint for ya: 60/40 red/blue above and 60/40 blue/red below, this takes advantage of the leafs that utilize blue vs. red photons. I'm gonna make a thread in cutting edge later today just to keep the threads easier to manage and read.
The Timebomb sounds great and I'm super stoked to grow it too! Not only is it supposed to have a great high, bag appeal and growth chararistics but its supposed to be a HUGE yielder too :drool: All I had to read was when GS told me it will be my outdoor holy grail! If GS says it I tend to believe it (as I do with a few others on this site too ;) )
TimeBomb from Legends:
The Texeda Timewarp is a infamous West Coast lady. Every fall the West Coast is blessed with this spicy outdoor monster that has been cultivated for over 20 years. The particular clone that was used in this cross is one that an old bushman has been using for 15+ years. She will easily take over any garden as she has an explosive growth rate that makes her more of a hedge than a plant. We decided to hit her with the DJ Short selected Blueberry male in order to shorten her flowering time down, so that it might be possible to bring in earlier than mid October. Expect a lot of variation-keep in mind the shorter squat selections might be the one to look for! These are strictly for outdoor, as the buds on this girl need a lot of light to tighten up. These are untested, so you let us know what you think!
Yield-potentially huge
Flowering Time-mid to late September
sounds interesting dude. Looking forward to seeing your willie and timebombs grow out. I think you will like the willie she is special.
yup, I'm looking forward to them too!
I've got a good deal more Willie, I just did a few to get a fell for them this summer. I was told they should flower into mid-October where I live. I haven't read much about Willie, the high, growth, etc. Can you wet my appetite a bit? What is she like?
the willie I have smoked is very heady, high is clear as crystal, the best sample I smoked made me feel like I had electricity flowing through my body. It always energizes me nd makes me get up and do something tho with any will-e I have smoked. What lat. are you at? I noticed willie starts tripping around aug 5th or so at 50*n
What lat. are you at? I noticed willie starts tripping around aug 5th or so at 50*n
I'm actually very near 50*n
You are making think I should start a dozen more Willies! maybe I just do 6 more to make it an even 10...:hmm:
hmm you might want to force flower it then man. otherwise your looking at a early nov harvest me thinks.
good luck gojo :) i had a small willie plant outdoors in the uk that was definately worth doing, it was harvesting mid-late oct with no mold and good tastey smoke.
Hey,
hmm you might want to force flower it then man. otherwise your looking at a early nov harvest me thinks.
My bad, I am actually at 36°n, not 50°n...I should not post when Im falling asleep! So I'm hoping the Willie should finish in late September or early October as I'm a good deal further south than I originally posted.
outdoordreams
05-01-2008, 10:07 PM
Great thread. Best of luck this summer. Im looking forward to learning from your results. Peace outdoordreams
Great thread. Best of luck this summer. Im looking forward to learning from your results. Peace outdoordreams
Thanks. And thank you for your help with my outdoor grow, you opinion was very useful! I'm looking forward to trying the wick system out!
...on the topic of water:
I made 9 rain-catchers (short but large surface area, easy to hide) that I use to fill a rain barrel I made. So far I've collected about 30-40 gallons...IN ONE STORM!!! I'm gonna make more rain-catcher and barrels, hopefully I'll have enough rain water to soak my soil (approx. 65cu ft). I made the rain-catcher/barrel and camouflaged them and covered them with door screening (hot glue gun). I'm gonna make some fresh AEM this week and add .25 or .5 cup to the rain barrel. I got all parts for about $90.00. The key to catching rain is surface area, someone posted a great link about how inches of rainfall equate to surface area and gallons of H2O collected...something like 1" of rain over 100sq ft gives 60gallons of rain water. I've got about 40sq ft of surface area with my rain-catchers and I was AMAZED with how much rain was collected, it didn't even rain for very long, maybe a day or so. I have the rain-catchers/barrell well hidden and they blend with the environment. The screen over the top helps to hide the sun's glare off of the H2O from helicopters.
An update (05-02-08):
-It's been 7 days since I buried/germinated the seeds and out of 49 seeds I got 49 sprouts :) all within 72 hours.
-I do not help the seeds break the soil besides misting them a few times a day (no dome). When a seed is slow to split it's shell after it has sprouted (when compared to the majority) I mark it as "slow" and help it by removing the shell. I watch the slow seedlings and cull them if they are undesirable.
-Out of 49 seeds I found 9 slow seedlings and one Timebomb was a mutant (I think a polygot, I need to check some pics)
-Out of 9 slow seedlins I have culled 6 due to inadequate growth: 3 Timebomb, 1 Agent Oragne, 1 Willie Nelson.
-Im a VERY impressed with the TB thus far. It's is full of energy and is just waiting to grow...I actually had trouble keeping up with the sprouting TB. A few of the TB have a really nice and deep blue/purple on the true leaf edges, pretty! This blue/purple is present in the polygot and that makes it even prettier, wish I had a good camera...damn 4 pixles!
-I am also very impressed with the WN thus far. It's the slowest to crack it's shell in H2O soak and slowest to break soil but once it sprouts it grows very well. I assume the slowness is due to it's heritage and because of that I don't consider them slow. But when compared to the rest of my seedlings they were the "slowest".
-The RGD is growing well and is vibrant.
-The AO is so-so. Out of 10 three were slow and one of those was culled. But it grows vigorously and is the tallest of the seedling strains. It's true leaf structure is neat, long leafs!
-Because I culled 6 seedlings I started 4 more TB and 1 more WN, back up to 48 seedlings. :sun:
purplehaze2
05-03-2008, 07:56 PM
nice thread gojo.I know you hate the ufo,but I have 2 of them,so now the damage is done.will this help with persuading the sex?and why are those leds so much better than the ufo?because the have a 1 colored spectrum,rather than a bunch of different spectrum.
islandgrow
05-03-2008, 08:07 PM
nice thread gojo! Puts my effort to shame haha. But I posted that link for the rain calculator :D. I cant wait to see the timebombs! Best of luck! How many hours of direct sunlight do you think your spot is gonna get??
will this help with persuading the sex?
I can not say definitivly. I was testing with only using blue. If you use the UFO for seeds I don't think they will have an effect on the % of females. Though they may because LED may cause less stress.
I described what happened to my experiment in this post (https://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/showpost.php?p=71188&postcount=8). Cannabis seedlings did not grow well under just blue, they need red too, that post goes into detail.
and why are those leds so much better than the ufo?
Well the blue i have specially is better than the most LEDs and the UFO in terms of blue because of the strength (watts) and density/quanity (diodes) of my LED. Most LEDs and the UFO (I believe) has more red diodes than blue and on some LEDs the diodes are not packed close together. How many diodes is the UFO?
Another reason I like the approach of single, large wattage and high diode LEDs vs. 'systems' (like the UFO) is single LEDs are much more versatile in a 3D sense. IMVHO good cannabis can not be grown with a system like a UFO because of the depth penetration problems of LEDs. And if your growing different pheno's or strains you'll have different plant heights, shorter ones will suffer as there further from the LED. Try not to think in terms of 2D HID, think of the canopy as a sphere that can be lit from any angle, within or without the canopy and middle-canopy.
because the have a 1 colored spectrum,rather than a bunch of different spectrum.
Ah! You have a single spectrum? That's really too bad, please read the post I linked to above. The results are the same for blue and red I'm afraid...cannabis needs a mix of both or you'll get weird growth.
You have 2 UFO's right? Do you have one red and one blue? If so your good, just rotate the positions of the UFO's once a day. One day the red is over position X and the blue is over position Y. The next day red is over Y and blue is over X...and so on.
If you only have one color then I would use them as adjunct to your HID lighting. So you'll have your HID hanging from above. You can hang the UFO's sideways so the light the sides of the canopy or you can point them upward and light the bottom of the caonpy...personlly I would rotoate the positions. Maybe a week on the side and a week on the bottom, back and forth. This will increase your yield by helping lower, less well lit popcorn buds develop due to the extra photons. Not to mention that the plant in general will benefit, more light helps the whole plant too.
nice thread gojo!
thanks!
Puts my effort to shame haha.
I doubt that!
But I posted that link for the rain calculator :D.
Nice! I've giving that to a TON of ppl! It was really useful when I was figuring out how much surface area I wanted to have when I made much rain-catchers, thanks! :up:
I cant wait to see the timebombs! Best of luck! How many hours of direct sunlight do you think your spot is gonna get??
Me too! They will get unfiltered, direct light from dawn to dusk, maybe 13-14 hours of intense daylight as my real time daylight is about 17 hours :sun:
purplehaze2
05-03-2008, 08:49 PM
it has blue light in the middle and red light on the outside of the blue.I gues to mimic the hps and mh.thanks gojo.
yea thats what I thought. But the problem is LEDs are very directional, so plants under the blue will get nearly all blue. You can still use your UFO for seeds just rotate it around so the seedlings get a good mix.
personally I would sprout seedligns under T5 or 4' floro with 4', 40watt "cool white" tubes.
I would use your LEDs as adjunct lighting for your HID the way I described. It is definitely worth doing, esp the side lighting cuz you can get the UFO close to the plant matter. No doubt it will have a positive effect, just try to rotate the postions to spread the red and blue photons around.
how many diodes is the UFO? Diodes are the little light bulbs in the LED.
later
An update...(05-07-08)
Strains:
-Willie Nelson: They are doing great and are developing faster then the other strains, except for AO. The WN have over taken Timebomb in growth as the 2nd set of true leafs are developing well.
-TimeBomb: They are doing great too and have a bit of varied growth (as is expected). I culled the polygot because I've never grown one out that was good...and it's a mutant after all. I really like the timebomb cuz' even on the 2nd set of true leaf that are just appearing you can see a nice deep purple/blue color on the leaf's edge...not on all of them but a fair amount.
-AgentOrange: These one surprised me as they are the most robust and vigorous of all the strains. Some are starting to develop their 3rd leaf set, nice and stout.
-RGD: These are the slowest and least vigorous...not much to report here.
Sexual Differentiation:
All the seedlings are developing their 2nd leaf set and the AO are developing their third...sexual differentitaion is set right around the time when the 4th leaf set begins to appear so the AO should be female or male within about 2-3 days...what color should I paint the seedling room...blue or pink? ...I vote for pink!!! ;)
Watering:
They just got their first full watering (just misting till this point) and I gave the microoganisms a bit of food in the water. For the first few waterings I dont' like to add any ferts with a full % or greater NPK. Heck, I don't usually add any ferts for the first 3 weeks or so.
Today they got:
1 gal H20
1 tbl liquid humic acid (fossile fuel)
.25 tsp Thermx70 liquid yucca extract
I don't add any kelp until they have reached sexual differentiation, I'm trying to limit the use of cytokinins as they promote males.
- Humic acid: Chleates (sp?) the e.castings in the soil and feeds the beneficial microorganisms (BMO)
- Yucca: Increases soil permeability and helps moisten dry spots (hydrophobic soil). Yucaa also increases H20 adhesion to soil/container and absorption by the peat in the soil mix...yucca is also a great source of food for BMO.
Next watering they'll get the above plus blk strap molassis, ACT and AEM. :farm:
Hey all,
Just a few pics I took when I put um under the 400 MH...gonna start with some Sonic Bloom Cd 30 minutes prior to the light turning on, I've used this before and think I've noticed positive growth. I remember when GrowGreen did a grow test and she found it didn't do much except increase H20 uptake and create a sharp increase in RH in the room...at the time it was thought the RH increase was due to leaf transpiration.
So for the strains I'm growing...there all doing great but I'm seeing a bit of mutation in the TimeBomb (leaf crinkle and bleaching) but I'm also seeing some real nice blues and purples in a few TB.
I getting real stoked to put um' outside...this week I'm gonna take some pics of my spot to share with everyone :D
Green Supreme
05-18-2008, 04:56 AM
Go Team Gojo. Mutants are common in Blueberry and Timewarp. No surprise for Timebomb then. They'll grow out of it. Keep up the good work man. Peace GS
Hey all!!!
Well the team just got there first taste of real NPK food and they loved it...here's what they got...:farm:
A.) Ingredients:
-4 gal h20
-4 tbl Earth Juice Grow
-1/2 tsp yucca extract (ThermX70) -food for micros and surficant
-8 tsp kelp liquid or soluble powder -food for the microoragnisms
-4 tsp liquid humic acid (Fossil Fuel) -food for micros
-2 oz black strap molasses
-4 tbl A/EM -contains few aerobic micros so I add it b4 and after brewing
-1 lb earthworm castings
-2 oz pond water w/muck, leaf, etc (from bottom of pond) -provides Protozoa, bacteria [use a turkey baster to get h20 from bottom of pond, deep in muck...that's where the protozoa live ;) )
B.) Method:
-put liquid ingredients into 5 gal pale (not Earth Juice)
-put e.castings in paint strainer bag
-pour pond water and muck trough paint strainer bag to catch muck
-tie off paint bag and hang, turn on air machine
-After 6-8 hours, when you REMOVE the bag ADD the Earth Juice
-brew for anther 18-24 hours
-when done brewing add another 4 tbl of A/EM before you use the ACT
-adjust PH, you should use EJ ph adjuster for PH down as it's ascorbic acid ;)
When adding the ferts add it as you normally would. We are not diluting this ACT further, it will be used "as is" when it's done brewing.
:photo: :up:
If you build it they will come...:kind:
A few quick pics of my spot...it runs East to West and is Southernly facing with no :sun: obstructions...it's over 1000sq ft :loco:
:welcome:
(the second one is a natural deer fence)
baker guerilla
05-22-2008, 06:46 AM
nice clearing...it looks similar to what we've been using, only yours is quite a bit larger. Do you have problems with deer because they're all over the place out here and so far they havent been a problem, but im worried one day i'll go to check on the young ones and they'll all have been chomped.
thanks...my grow spot is actually on a friends land, he lives in the big city and doesn't come to his land very often so it's good for both of use and safe for me :farm:
The clearing is great and I just 'happened' upon it while scouting one day....sweet find as it's perfect and even has ground coverage of smaller plants (which I'll keep pruned) and i've mulched the dryer soil patches* with natural forest matter.
As for deer I don't think they'll be a problem, I haven't seen any tracks or beddings...and my friends says they are not densely populated in this area. Other OD growers I know don't report problems either. the funny part is that "deer fence" was there when I found the patch....I jokingly call it a "natural" deer fence when it's really just a bunch of sticks happened to fall over a an old foot path leading to a cool mountain :D
*On a side note:
It's important to keep the small living plants, moss, runners, etc or mulch the hell out of the ground around your plants with natural forest matter. The main way LEO/helicopters using FLIR (sp?) and other heat-sensitive meters to find plots is many growers remove the little plants and forest matter to keep the grow area "clean". WHile making it easy to work it also makes the ground easy to spot from above. The "clean", yet dry soil will give off a distinctly different heat signature than the cannabis plant's soil and surrounding area which has natural cover. Soil with little plants and roots in it, or one that is mulched, holds more moisture than does "naked" soil which tends to be dryer. Basically the dry soil is unnatural when it's surroundings are taken into consideration and gives off a MUCH different heat signature so it makes LEO suspicious and they decide look closer...:(
Another added bonus of keeping ground covered:
It will keep the plants cooler too...if the soil is covered and a bit moist it will store and radiate much less heat back at the cannabis plant shoot/leafs. This is important if someone grows in the ground, hot soil can hurt the roots too. Kind of like the viticulture technique of laying stones under vines to keep them warm though the night...but in reverse!! (I love stealing concepts from viticulturists!)
outdoordreams
05-22-2008, 09:24 PM
Great thread GOJO!
That clearing your using looks great!
Best of luck this summer!
vapor
05-22-2008, 10:07 PM
hey i know that spot!! jk/./././
hows your water situation?
ODD,
thanks :up: ...BTW, I'm looking forward to this fall/winter when I start the project :kind: !
Vapor,
LOL...I thought I noticed someone following me...guess I need to build a huge ass :wall: !!!
My water situation is looking really good so far. It's been raining like crazy filling up the ground H20 nicely...I collected over 80 gallons of rain water so far but I've lost a few gallons cuz' of evaporation. I have about 2-3 weeks before I put the team outside (I'm waiting for their sex), but by then I hope to have over 100 gallons of rain H20 collected. I've got like 90 cu ft (or about 450 gallons) of soilless mix to pre-soak :farm:
Water reserve stuff:
-I still gonna mulch the top of containers with pine bark fines and a top layer of forest material for camouflage. I'm also going to pile up soil around the outside of the containers which I'll mulch with forest material too...both of those should keep a good deal more moisture in my containers and keep the soil cool and roots happy....both should lead to increased yield vs. not mulching :)
-I gonna make "Water Tubes" (https://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/showthread.php?t=1296)that cray posted about. I'm goona use about 3 per container and increase if drought becomes an issue.
-I also still gonna put wicks from about 2' deep into ground to my containers. I have real high ground h20 I hope to take advantage of. Using the wicks has two advantages of providing water to the plant AND of lowering the PWT in the containers if it becomes a problem.
Note:
(I'm sure you know this but I'm posting for completeness sake)
I bought some nylon rope, nylon/poly rope and a capillary mat and I'm gonna do a test tonight to see which material can carry H20 the highest in the shortest time. Those two parameters show the absorption [height] and adhesion [speed] of water to the diff materials. We want high absorption and low adhesion.
Hey all,
Here are some pics of my OD grow this year...It's a crappy camara and the photographer isn't that skilled either :loco:...
If they look a bit small it's cuz' they didn't go outside until the middle-end of June: I had some issue in real life :( . And while they were vegging from seed indoor I lost power for a few days while I was on vacation, 2-3 days in dark :( . Anyway, after all are looking good! IMVHO that is :)
If they look a little yellowish on the bottom it's cuz' they haven't gotten full ferts yet!!! (MetaNaturals this OD season). I went with low ferts and esp low P to let the microherd and AM proliferate for a few weeks. All they've gotten in terms of fertilizers was a bit of hydrolized fish, kelp, EJ Grow, MetaK, EWC tea, etc. I went with EJ Grow as it's 2-1-1 and EJ MetaK as it's 0-0-10 and hydrolyzed fish is 1-4-2. So I used more EJ Grow and MetaK, with less fish (which I add for fungi) to get a mix of higher N and K with lower P...but all the ferts are applied at most at 1/2 strength but more like 1/4 strenght.
It's funny cuz' the plants are looking great and growing like 2-3 inches a day and would be taller then me if not LST and topped. All this WITHOUT high amounts of NPK. I think the N and P (and probably K) fixing bacteria and fungi are solubilizing those macros so efficiently that the plant is given all it needs with WAYYY less ferts than it should be possible to grow with at this point...not to mention that the AM will be helping and providing P...
Anyway, I'm going to start a full fert regimen this week with MetaNaturals and other stuff, with KelPak!!! (yea!)...I'm gonna post my current mix in c-rays "what's in yer brew" thread but it may take a day or two...
SO enough talk...
The first pic is the left hand side of my grow and the second pic is the right hand side of my grow...
Here some pics,
I didn't have time to shoot a lot of them, or with different angles but here's some of my favorite...
Willie, Willie Willie!!!
THANKS TO THE KIND MEMBER WHO GIFTED THESE!
Time for some Timebomb! YEA! hehehe :)
Some of these are MONSTERS, the pics don't do 'um justice!
Hell, on two very similar TB pheno's which seems like 50/50 tw/bb I can't even LST cuz' the stems and branches are soooo strong and thick. ONe main apical brach broke under LST. It was only hanging on by the outer skin but it had these funny little white filaments running from the good edge of the break to the edge on the broken part. The broken top was at like 120 degress from vertical.
After two days the filaments pulled the broken top, which is about 2" long, back up to a vertical position!!! And then healed the wound. Now the top is looking great and you'd never know it was broken, except for the scar. FUnny thing is now it's like I used SuperCropping on the branch :)
I have seen wounds and breaks heal but nothing like this before...I am REALLY interseted in those white filaments, anyone have info on them? It was just amazing cuz' the broken top was big and thick, it was not light by any means. ANd the break was sooo bad I thought it would die, only the smallest piece of skin was connecting the broken top and the main apical branch...
and yes, I'm stoned and just took a perk...my back is hurting a lot...perks are like speed for me so I'm wired and typing...hope you don't mind. It's that or pick my skin,lol (kidding!)
And finally we have some...
Agent Orange, (Local Orange Skunk x Jacks Cleaner X Space Queen) nice! I am impressed with this strain, more than I thought I'd be. I bought it cuz' it's supposed to be a good OD strain and real heavy and taste like orange cream sicles, even the bong water is supposed to smell like oranges after smoking a few bowls of the AO.
It has great growth and LOVES to be LST's more so than topped. You can see the Local Orange Skunk pheno in a few and the rest seem to be sativa phenos maybe from the Jacks Cleaner? (I've never grown/smoked JC so that a guess, same for the LOS).
These AO are nice as they have exhibited about 2-3 phenos...by contrast the Timebomb has like 6+ phenos and the Willie seems to have 1-2 phenos...
I'm def going to order more gear from SubCool, unless there is some reason I should not? I have heard some complaints about him? ANyone have opinion? (feel free to PM me)
looks good gojo
cool with the nylon rope if it works
purplehaze2
07-18-2008, 01:37 AM
very nice gojo, good colar green,very healthy looking , and willie sounds delicsh.
Bumba Klaat!!!! (swears in English are not bad enough) :nono:
THey are all gone! I went to my spot today and the fucking cops must have been there yesterday. They cut every beautiful girl down and took them all...evil fucking bastards...I HATE living in the US!!!!
But, at least I still have my freedom which is less than many unfortunate growers can say...I might be overly cautious on this site with my usage of Tor, etc, but here in the US the War on Drugs is in full swing, here in the US we live with it everyday :(
I am not super angry they took the plants, just sad...I was SOOO looking forward to the Willie... :cry:
being angry ain't gonna help me at all...
But again, at least I wasn't arrested and I'm not looking at 5-10 years...at least I'm still a free man...
FUck the cops, like this will stop me or anyone else who it happens to...just try harder next time and hope for the best.
at least I'm still free...I knew that fucking helicopter was bad news when I noticed it two days ago...
well, that's the sad saga of Team Gojo 2008...
I guess I'll have more free time to figure out how to take over the world!...lol...or at least dream of my next OD grow and my soon come indoor season :up:
Stay safe my brothers and sisters, the War is still on, too bad they refuse to acknowledge that they can't win and they are waging an immoral War. They are waging an evil and unjust war...don't they already have enough Wars?: Afghanistan, Iraq, Iran, etc, etc...I guess the US is addicted to War...epically with that fuck face Bush in office.
...GO OBAMA!!!
**Obama is as pro-medical cannabis as a candidate can be, he is open to it...hell he used to smoke herb, sell and use coke, etc...so I hope to hell he'll keep it real...
***Fuck Nacy Regan and Saturday Night Live!!! That's how this whole fucking War started: SNL was doing a lot of drug orientated skits and Nacy "Fuck-Face" Regan got mad at the comdey and bitched at good ol' Pres. Regan who then did her bidding and then BAMM: we have the War on Drugs a few months later...Fuck the Regans!!!
Green Supreme
07-25-2008, 06:52 PM
Most unfortunate, just a re affirmation that stuff should be stored in more than 1 place. Sorry for your loss. Peace GS
Hey,
yea I should have had a few locations, but they are so hard to get to around here...it's a 45 min drive just to get to one spot...
later man,
Green Supreme
07-25-2008, 07:02 PM
Illegitimus non carborundum. Peace GS
GS,
oh and thanks for my new, and first signature...if it was coined in WWII and still used in combat, etc I think it's apt usage for me in this War on Drugs :up:
later bro
Hoverman
11-16-2008, 06:14 PM
I've been building LED units for 5 years. I've been selling them on Ebay for 2 years. No, they are not the Chinese built one foot square units. They are hand built in the USA!
One of the priorities of using LEDs is to get light wavelengths that coincide with the "Light Absorbtion for Chlorophyll A" chart. If you look at the chart 490nm is pretty much useless for Chlorophyll A production. Less than 1 % of the light will be absorbed by the plants according to the chart.
Another major priority is to try to copy the suns wavelengths used for Chlorophyll A production. Red photons in our atmosphere can make it through Nitrogen, and Oxygen while some Blue get stuck bouncing of the two molecules hence the blue sky (not red). The reds and blues come in multiple wavelengths. One blue wavelength will give short plants with large leaves. One red wavelength will give tall plants with small leaves. A mix of 5 to 1 Red to Blue is the good for vegging. Some plant may require less blue in the flowering chamber.
Coverage is definately a problem with the "Old Style" LEDs. They were under powered at 3-13 Candela @ 20 degrees. The NEW LEDs are 40, 60, 120, and 140 degrees. They are also about 28-100 Candela. These are the .5 Watt LEDs that are considered the bottom rung of the High Powered line.
Be very wary of High Power units, because they can waste up to 33% of the light in the form of heat. A common Blue .5 Watt 140 degree LED uses 5 chips, and produces about 100 Candela @ 150mA per string. A common Blue 20mA 40 degree LED uses one chip, and produces about 45 Candela. You would need 3.5 x Low Power LEDs to produce the same coverage of the .5 watt LEDs, but the low power would give off 157.5 Candela. The .5 watt LED gives off 57.5 less Candela than the 3.5 low power LEDs. The .5 watt LED also uses 1.5 more chips to produce less light. The 1.5 chips is wasted giving off heat instead of light.
Always remember that the closer ANY LIGHT is to the canopy the more power delivered to the plants. A low power LED unit can sit on top of the canopy at 0 inches away. .5 watt LED units should be about 4 inches away. 3-5 watt units have to be about 8 inches away. A MH/HPS 400 watt unit needs to be about 12 inches away. Double any distance to the plants, and you will halve the power delivered to the canopy.
You do NOT need 10 Watt LEDs to grow plants. If you try to put the new HIGH POWER LEDS within 0-4 inches you will probably burn the plants. To replace HPS, and MH lighting you need about 8 times less power with LEDs. So, a 1000 watt light would be replaced by 125 watts of WELL MIXED LEDs.
Don't bother putting any lighting underneath the canopy. It's a total waste of time, because all the photoreceptors in plants are near the surface of the top of the plant. If you put light under the canopy, the top of the leaf will curl to meet the brightest light in the area. Putting light on the side will have the same leaf movement to meet the light.
I've finally seen the 1 foot square lights in person. The major flaw they have is that they are not sealed against moisture, and the components will have rust on them quickly. This will quickly raise the resistance which will eventually make the LED lighting fail.
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