Gojo does organics

[guest]

c-ray, man you had me up till 4am the past two nights researching Bokashi, (A)EM, compost teas, etc! I think I've got a pretty good handle on it...
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I'm going to make some AEM which I'll use to make Bokashi. I will then use that Bokashi as a compost starter for the main bokashi compost piles. When the Bokashi composts are ready I will brew them with molasses, earth worm castings and AEM to make a nice tea I can use in hydro/soil/foliar.
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Both of your opinions would be great. I still have to figure out proportions but that shouldn't be too hard with most ingredients listed. I haven't yet started so this will take a while, especially the vermipost...I'm gonna test all resulting materials on indoor herbs and tomatoes first.

All ingredients will be fresh, organic and sourced locally where appropriate and they will be run through a food processor (to speed up fermentation and decomposition) when possible. Rock powders will be micronized where possible.

AEM:
I will use freshly ground wheat grass, solar dried sea salt and EM ceramic powder (structures h2o and assists in fermentation) as "extras"

Bokashi (compost starter)
I will use wheat bran and I'll use the AEM I fermented in place of EM.

Wheat Grass
I am going to grow my own so I can do so cheaply and organically, using AEM too.

Red-Worm Castings
I am making my own with a few "can-o worms" and it will be used in the final tea. The worms will be feed newspapers I've read and mostly the Bokashi vegetable compost I'll make.

Tea
I will brew it from decomposed bokashi compost, blk strap molassis, AEM (AEM/molassis/h20=1:1:100)

Bokashi composts
I'm gonna use a few large rubber-made containers with drains for composting. After the compost is pickled I will bury it in earth worm castings to allow it to completely decompose into hummus. I plan to use the bokashi composts to make a tea so I want them to be completely decomposed.

Ingredients for compost piles, I'm gonna make a "veg" and "bloom" compost pile containing the appropriate ingredients for each life stage of cannabis:

...vegetable/plant matter:
alpha, nettle, valerian, horsetail, dandelion, yarrow, sunflower, yeast, kelp, carrots, bananas and peels, orange peel, grapefruit skin, red beets, soybeans, oak bark, ash bark, birch bark, wheat grass, humic acid, egg shell, endo/ecto mycorrhizal fungi, archaeobacteria (beneficial microorganisms, assists in breaking down compost), EM ceramic powder (assists in pickling), etc

...guanos/meat:
raw yellow fin tuna, raw Atlantic salmon, fresh cow manure, seabird guanos, dolomite lime, gypsum, agricultural lime, micronized azomite ("rock powder" for silica), calphos soft rock phosphate (phosphorus and calcium), powdered zinc sulfate(zinc, sulfur), powdered quartz[maybe], green glacial rock dust, egg shell, kelp meal, carrots, humic acid, endo/ecto mycorrhizal fungi, archaeobacteria (beneficial microorganisms, assists in breaking down rock dust), EM ceramic powder (assists in pickling), etc

My goal is to be able to make my own organic ferts so I don't have to buy them anymore. Not to mention the tea's I wish to make should be much better than hydro-organics available now. After all the reading I've done EM seem like the ticket, especially since they can compost meat (though it may take a bit longer). EM seems like the missing 'link' as it were for organic-hydro as the nutrients in the resulting tea are much more readily available to the plant vs. traditional organic-hydro. Not to mention the fact the tea is made from fresh ingredients and raw fish and it's full of life and goodies.

[c-ray]

that's a lot of questions, I'll have to get back to you when I have a bit more time

[guest]

Hey

nice title ;) . Sorry about all the q's, I've read answers to them but I don't always trust the source so I am curious about your opinions and research.

In regards to #1 I've read that you can use it for plants directly, undilluted and I've read you should not use it on plants.

Yea #2 is not too important as I've researched all the ingredients and they have been used in agriculture/viticulture before with good success. I just thought something might jump out at you. I've have read of anyone using raw fish but I figure it should be a great source of oils, macro/micro nutrients and fats...Native American composted with raw fish and had great success.

As far as #3 and turning the bakashi goes I think I will turn it after the initial decomp but then continue anaerobically and re-seal the container. This seems the preferred method.

On #4 I'm sure I'm screwed!

all the ingredients sound expensive but I should be able to get all the ingredients for 200-300. not bad considering how long they will last me and that it sounds fun too!

[guest]

Hey c-ray,

found a few products I think I may add:

"Archaeobacteria" (as Biozome)
Concentrated blend of natural microorganisms put together by Dr. Carl Oppenheimer (the "father of bioremediation") after 40 years of research. He collected these primitive "Archaeobacteria" from salt pans, hot springs, and volcanic regions all over the world, so they are hardy and capable of living in extreme conditions. Applied and watered into the soil, they immediately begin decomposing any organic matter or hydrocarbon based (petroleum products and pesticides) contaminants, and dissolving silicates (rocks) to mineralize the soil by releasing nutrients. Repeated yearly application of BioZome and tilling will increase soil depth. Unbelievable compost starter as these aerobic microbes are active even with minute amounts of oxygen and survive temperatures between 35-180 deg F.

I like how these will help break down mineral, rock dust.

Green Glacial Rock Dust (as Gaia Green)
Mined Trace Minerals A natural mineral product produced by thousands of years of glacial action. A wide variety of rocks containing a spectrum of trace minerals are collected and pulverized by the expansion/contraction action of the glacier. From Canadian moraines, this product replaces key soil elements, reversing soil depletion. Excellent source of readily available calcium, iron, magnesium and potassium pluce trace elements and micronutrients. Increases phosphorous availability and improves CEC.

Structuring water when activating EM (as EM Super Cera-C Powder)
Produced using the most recent technology and made with both EM and EM-X, Super Cera C powder can be added into activating EM mixtures to structure the water.
Structuring water creates a supportive environment for beneficial and efficient microbes to activate and proliferate.

Looking into vapor's thread for more info on NPKs https://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/showthread.php?t=3124 I still need to parse the list of compost ingredients for the different needs of the vegetative and flowering stage teas.

:D

[c-ray]

I want to try some of that biozome
I really don't have enough experience with EM to give you a definitive answer for everything but I can supply you more info if you want to respond to the pm I sent you
personally I just use EM to help mellow out some fish and other bulk ferts then use at about 1-3 ml per liter with every feeding
with organics for me I am finding it is about giving the plants a variety of food sources but at small doses and letting the plants decide what they want to eat

[The Cannarchist]

Hubble bubble......

It's magic potion time for the Gojo!

[guest]

Hey again,

After more research I see that I won't need to worry about turning the compost after all. It seems the finished bokashi compost will only fully decompose into a humus like matter after a few weeks of further decomposition buried in soil. So I will keep the bokashi compost in the buckets for the normal period of 2-6 weeks for the veg compost and 4-8 weeks for the meat/guano compost.

After the compost is remove from the tubs I'll bury both bokashi composts in earth worm castings w/benifical fungi, bokashi compost starter and fresh AEM from a hand held mister. After a month or two I hope the compost will be completely broken down and then I will brew the tea with the castings and bokashi, along with fresh AEM.

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In regards to making bokashi compost starter:
should I use wheat bran or is mushroom compost a good alternative? I have read you can use rice hulls, manure, mushroom compost, etc. From what I can surmise, what bran is the de facto standard because it's easy to use, consistent and inexpensive. I also read it's good to add the EM clay powder (like "EM Super Cera-C Powder") when making bokashi compost starter.

I'd like to use mushroom compost due to it's history as a hummus/soil enhancer, not to mention it's been used to create bokashi before. From what I've read ideal moisture levels when soaking bokashi matter with AEM is 30% or so. So I am going to air out some mushroom compost to remove it's latent moisture before I soak it with AEM to keep the moisture level around 30%. I think mushroom compost may work well as when it's aired out it takes on a crumbly, crusty, rough texture and easily absorbs water.

[guest]

I really don't have enough experience with EM to give you a definitive answer for everything but I can supply you more info if you want to respond to the pm I sent you


will do

...with organics for me I am finding it is about giving the plants a variety of food sources but at small doses and letting the plants decide what they want to eat

I agree, that's why my compost ingredinet list is long and varied. I have few I depend on for NKP (fish, alfalfa, guano, beets, orange and grapefruit peels) but the others are for micros and IAA, NAA, etc. I plan to tailor the compost ingredients for a veg tea (with fish, alfalfa and beets, no oranges, grapefruit or guano) a flower tea (with citrus peels, guano and less alfalfa, no fish), and seedling/starter tea, etc.

:D

[c-ray]

sounds great but why citrus peels?
in regular thermal compost they typically take a long time to break down and are full of essential oils...just curious maybe I am missing out on some key info

beware the mushroom compost (https://cannabis-world.org/cw/showthread.php?t=1786&highlight=mushroom+compost)
I have a bag of bokashi I made from hay a few months back...have yet to try it but I should soon I guess

for the teas I recommend adding some humic acid and sea crop for veg and early flower
sounds like fun...good luck

[guest]

Hi,

> sounds great but why citrus peels?

For potash. Organic sources of N and P are easy to find but sources of K not so much. Do you know of a better source for K?

orange peels = 0-3-27
grapefruit peels (ash) = 0-3.6-30.6 (though I'm sure fresh peels have less K)

> beware the mushroom compost

Yea, I'm going to use wheat bran not mush compost for the bokashi compost starter. Everything I've read says you need a high carbon material source (wheat bran, rice hulls, straw, etc). I like how you used hay, I don't really want to use what bran. Let me know how the hay works.

thanks,

[c-ray]

cool I didn't know that about citrus peels
hemp stalks are supposed to be high in K, not sure of the exact numbers though, but it is one of the better plant sources I hear...something like this (http://www.hempline.com/products/hemp_chips/) maybe
kelp and other seaweeds are good
wood ash is a high K source but it is also caustic, might work though
wheat bran is cheap at farm feed supply stores
the hay was actually from our lawn, which had gotten out of hand

[guest]

hey,

after a bit more study of good materials (thanks man!) I updated my first post a little bit.

It turns out I should mix all ingredients (veg matter and meat/guanos) into a single pile as I should have a 3:1 or better ratio of organic matter to meat/guanos/rocks for proper bokashi pickling and decomposition.

I also included fresh cow manure as a source of fulvic acid. if cow manure is composted for 75 days (thermally) then it contains 1505 ppm of fulvic acid...but if it's composted the bokashi way it should contain a good deal more than that.
http://www.doaj.org/doaj?func=abstra...6047&openurl=1

still to-do
-make three lists of ingredients for 3 different compost piles - 1)seed, 2)veg & pre-flower, 3) flower
-detail what each ingredient offers to the plant (...why I'm using each one)
-list ratios, proportions and amounts of ingredients to use in piles


:D

[brokencage]

Hi,

> sounds great but why citrus peels?

For potash. Organic sources of N and P are easy to find but sources of K not so much. Do you know of a better source for K?

thanks,

Wood ash works well for K I use it as a partial replacment for lime.Be sure to use only good hard wood ash."The average ash is equivalent to a 0-1-3 (N-P-K)"there is quite abit of good info out there for its uses.
http://www.emmitsburg.net/gardens/articles/frederick/2004/ashes.htm


BC EDIT:hmm glad you brought this up iv been getting ready to plant my spring veggie garden and I think ill go all organic this time.iv been meaning to learn more anyway.btw heres some more info on organic sources for potash/K http://www.commongroundinpaloalto.org/recsoilamendments.htm