All about Spider Mites

[c-ray]

ok let's lay down the info we know about the #1 enemy of the cannabis plant, the lowly spider mite, with knowledge and superior fire power one day we will defeat the borg

for starters check out this page: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spider_mite

[Lrus007]

well you need to bring out the chem's
a mix of floromite, stirrup , and indicate 5
use a spray bottle and spray don't dip plant's..
don't do budding plant's only clones or in grow..
spray 3 times 3 day's apart that's the plant's..

spray room with malathion use a bigger and
different sprayer and do room/ rooms 3 times..
for both wear a mask gloves ect. but when
you are done the mites are gone eggs and all..

p.s. do your house plants with the floro mix
at the same time..

[Parabola]

I don't like to use chems at all. Just use a clean room, clean equipment and start with clean cuts or seeds for indoors and I have seen rooms go for years and years without any mites at all.

[anonymyster]

I agree with Para. Never bring a plant into your sterile environment from the outside world and you may never experience mites.
But if you bring random clones in from random environments...you'll have a mite in there at least 1 in 4 times. At least.

Mites like heat and low humidity. Provide them a low RH and high temp environment and they will explode faster than you can read this thread and faster than almost anything you can throw at them.
Spray what you will, but in addition, lower temps and raise the RH as much as you dare to slow the fuckers down!
In optimum conditions, the main portion of their life cycle can be a short as 3days...but in high humidity low temp environments...as slow as 30days per cycle.

Nony.

[Irie1]

Look guys, some of us are surrounded by these bastards and can't keep them away. I successfully avoided them for 8 years till I moved to Humboldt. Now everyone I come into contact with has them! If anyone comes over, or if I go anywhere that has them, even the grow store, they come back. The one's I have encountered recently are immune to pyrethrium, neem, preclude, and many other things. I have blasted them with floramite, only to see them becoming resistant to that as well! This is a much needed thread, as these critters are tenacious! The one's around here are starting to look like ROCKY BALBOA on STEROIDS!!!! Very scary!

[c-ray]

hear that Irie1... same sitch up here in BC... the mites are now quite resistant to avid mostly, also endall and pyrethin based sprays, the stinky shit like neem garlic and chilis,and some of the older toxic powder miticides...I saw some crazy shit when I stopped using avid a few years ago, the spraying seemed to make them stronger and faster since the dosage (concentration) needed to 'do the job' was usually a bit more than the last time..they were very fast
I will not be surprised if the mites here are floramite / dynamite resistant in the next 2 years, since that is the newest and most popular miticide here

so it is quite important if miticides are necessary then it is a good idea to have 2 or more different types and to avoid using the same one twice in a row

I found one in canada called pyramite that does not require a pesticide license to purchase, do your research first if you want to get some they will ask you which crop you are growing, I believe strawberries and cherries are approved, but one has to buy a large quantity like $600 worth at a time, the govt. says it is OK to spray strawberries up to 10 days before harvest with this poison...not sure if that is a good idea but maybe that would indicate that it is not so toxic and/or residual compared to some of the other poisons


also.....any material that a spidermite can travel in on is a potential entry like you say...so it is very important to be clean
it's like surfing the net, there are precautions we can take and tools we can use to protect from a virus, a worm, etc...

cleaning the room thoroughly between crops is a must
inspecting and cleaning any plants that are introduced into the grow is a must
30x scopes are useful here

temps of under 80 F are desirable, and humidity above 40%

if there is an increased risk of mites coming from plants or people then we can do more extreme stuff like for instance:
putting filters on the intake
sticky mats that you have to step on entering the room
showering and putting on fresh clothes just before going into the room and just after leaving the room

[Lrus007]

c-ray your right don't use same chem
more than 1 time.. so go from floromite
to avid ect. but if you spray well. these
chems will work. use the stirrup in all
of the mixes it's worth it..

[Nirrity]

Hello!
Could you help me and tell if is this the work of spide mites?

[Green Supreme]

Looks more like a leaf fungus{Spot}. If you had mite damage that bad you would see webs all over your plants. Good luck. Peace GS

[dpn]

Has anyone heard of the Dutch Master Penetrator + Neem oil combination?
ive heard a few people have a glowing success with it.

[Green Supreme]

Penetrator works awesome whenever you foliar spray its a very good wetting agent. Personally the neem is a little smelly for me. I use Floromite and Endall with a wetting agent{Penetrator when I can afford and phosphate and scent free dish soap when I am broke}. Peace GS

[The disclosure]

Best remedy is to never have them!

Never ever introduce plants into blooming phase if you have had a spider sighting...Diapause is a MF....

[The Cannarchist]

They are now immune to Floramite and Avid in BC

[Kali]

Anyone tried powdered Diatomacious earth? I had mites when i was in BC, biggest p.i.t.a. ever. I was relatively new to growing then so i just sprayed with a pyrethrum based product (forget the name).

I now use D.E. religiously for everything pest related, including around the house.

http://www.ontariogrowerssupply.com/Detail.asp?pid=1362

Your plants will not only benefit from being protected from pests, but the silica in the diatomaceous earth will also be made available to your plants. Diatomaceous earth (DE) is composed of microscopic sharp edges that cut into, and penetrate the exoskeleton of an insect. The tiny cuts cause the insect to lose moisture, resulting in the insects demise from dehydration within hours of coming into contact with the Pest Control Powder. Insects that eat the dust will experience the same end.

If your garden or pet is adversely effected by ants, roaches, box elder bugs, crickets, silverfish, caterpillars, grasshoppers, spiders, carpet beetles, fleas, ticks, slugs, snails and earwigs, and you are looking for a safe non-chemical alternative,

• When applying Bio Dust Pest Control Powder simply lightly dust the affected area of the plant as well as its base. Reapply the powder after heavy rains
• Household Pets-Fleas and Ticks Apply the Pest Control Powder by dusting pet beds, carpets, cages, resting areas, or any other area these pests are found. It can safely be applied directly onto your pet by rubbing it thoroughly onto your cat or dogs coat. It is completely non-toxic and safe for your pet to ingest, saving your pet from being exposed to possibly harmful chemicals.

[dpn]

interesting... i would wear a decent dust mask when around that stuff though, ive heard of a few people with scarred lungs from DE.

[Green Supreme]

Never heard of putting it on plants, definitely heard of people top dressing their soil with it for the reason you stated. This would have an affect on offspring that rise from the medium. Seems hard to imagine sprinkilng this stuff on plants to kill mites though. Would need to see more research I guess, oh and I definitely wouldn't go sprinkling it on buds due to a late flower time infection. Peace GS

[dpn]

you could make a neem oil + diatomaceous earth spray? the neem would act as a kind of spreader sticker and would keep the dust levels down...
think this might work?

[Kali]

Good idea dpn, ive never spayed withthe stuff myself but it says you can use it in a foilar. And yes a mask is a neccecity when using this stuff.

GS, I have not used this on mites as I haven't had them here in the east. More research is deffinitly needed. I figure if they eat and travel on the leaves then it should work when powdered on the leaf surface. yea i would't use it on plants late in flower, however in the first few weeks it probably wouldnt hurt.

[c-ray]

some interesting info about Diapause...thanks to the disclosure for bringing this to my attention

from http://8e.devbio.com/article.php?id=211
Diapause in Insects

Many species of insects have evolved a strategy called diapause. Diapause is a suspension of development that can occur at the embryonic, larval, pupal, or adult stage, depending on the species. In some species, diapause is facultative and occurs only when induced by environmental conditions; in other species the diapause period has become an obligatory part of the life cycle. The latter is often seen in temperate-zone insects, where diapause is induced by changes in the photoperiod (the relative lengths of day and night). The day length when 50% of the population has entered diapuase is called the critical day length, and it is usually quite sudden (Figure 1). Insects entering diapuse when the day length falls below this threshold are called long day insects. Those insects that develop normally when there are only a few hours of sunlight and that enter diapuse when exposed to longer days are called short-day insects. The critical day length is a genetically determined property (Danilevskii 1965; Tauber et al. 1986).



from http://www.ento.org.nz/nzentomologist/free_issues/NZEnto16_1_1993/Volume%2016-94-99.pdf
The two-spotted mite (TSM), Tetranychw urticae Koch (Acari: Tetranychidae) was reared on bean plants at 25OC, 16:8 L : D cycle and 60% RH. Diapausing mites were produced from this colony by placing the infested bean plants at 15 OC, 75 % RH and under a 12:12 L:D cycle. The characteristic, orange-coloured, adult mites developed after about 4 weeks and migrated to the under surface of black, cardboard collectors placed on top of the leaves. The collectors were stored at 4°C in total darkness until required. The cost of producing diapausing mites was 0.05 and 0.67 cents per mite without labour and with labour, respectively; it took about 6 hours to produce 10,000 diapausing mites per week once the production system was established.

...

THE LIFE-CYCLE

The Two Spotted Mite is normally pale yellow, pale green or straw coloured. The life cycle consists of egg, larva, protonymph, deutonymph and adult. At the end of the larval and each nymphal stage there is an inactive period called the quiescent stage in which the mite anchors itself to a leaf and moults. The life cycle is completed in 7-30 days within a temperature range of 15-30°C (Crooker 1985), the lower threshold temperature being 10°C (Herbert 1981).

Adult diapause is induced by a short day-cycle and low ambient temperature during juvenile development of females (Veerman 1985) but there is wide geographical variation in photoperiodic response (Gotoh & Shinkaji, 1981; Takafuji et al. 1989). Ageing foliage is also a major factor in the initiation of diapause. Hussey (1972) described morphological characteristics of the deep orange-red diapausing females, the colour developing within 3-5 days of maturation. Once the colour changes, feeding ceases and the contents of the hind gut are voided before the mites migrate from plants to seek an overwintering site.

Once diapause is induced females become positively geotactic and negatively phototactic. This combination ensures that they seek out cracks and crevices, bark, fences, debris and other hiding places. Hussey (1972) reported that the exposure of developmental stages to < 13OC and 8:16 L:D cycle produced 94-100% diapausing females. Diapause can be terminated by placing the mites at 7 OC for 14 days and returning them to fresh foliage at 25OC and 16:8 L:D cycle (Parr & Hussey 966)



this one is interesting...
from http://www.blackwell-synergy.com/doi/abs/10.1046/j.1570-7458.1997.00171.x
Postharvest disinfestation of diapausing and non-diapausing twospotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) on persimmons: hot water immersion and coolstorage

* Philip J. Lester11The Horticulture and Food Research Institute of New Zealand Limited, Mount Albert Research Centre, Private Bag 92 169, Auckland, New Zealand*,
* Peter R. Dentener11The Horticulture and Food Research Institute of New Zealand Limited, Mount Albert Research Centre, Private Bag 92 169, Auckland, New Zealand,
* Keren V. Bennett11The Horticulture and Food Research Institute of New Zealand Limited, Mount Albert Research Centre, Private Bag 92 169, Auckland, New Zealand &
* Patrick G. Connolly11The Horticulture and Food Research Institute of New Zealand Limited, Mount Albert Research Centre, Private Bag 92 169, Auckland, New Zealand
*The Horticulture and Food Research Institute of New Zealand Limited, Mount Albert Research Centre, Private Bag 92 169, Auckland, New Zealand

*Biology Department, Queen's University, Kingston, Ontario, Canada K7L 3N6
Abstract


The mortality response of diapausing and non-diapausing twospotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae Koch) on persimmons to hot water immersion treatments between 44 and 54 °C was examined, for potential as a quarantine treatment. The mean immersion time for mean 99% mortality (LT99) of diapausing mites at 44 °C was 211 min, and this time decreased with increasing temperature to 3.6 min at 54 °C. Non-diapausing mites were found to be less tolerant to temperatures below 48 °C, with an estimated LT99 of 102 min at 44 °C, but had similar thermotolerance above 48 °C. In 47 °C water the immersion time required to kill 99% of diapausing mites was estimated at 67 min. This time was not reduced by subsequent coolstorage at 0 °C for up to eight weeks. Rather, coolstorage had the effect of keeping mites alive, relative to LT99 estimates calculated for mites stored at 20 °C. Similarly the thermotolerance of mites did not change with increased time in diapause, even though mites in diapause for 12 weeks had high control mortality. Hot water immersion appears to be a potentially useful disinfestation method for persimmons.


and lastly the image below comes from http://www.pps.org.tw/pdf/ppb47-2-3.pdf

[gojo]

Hey,


How about some good bugs:

Pirate bug:
(Orius insidiosis)
Eats thrips, spider mites, insect eggs, small catipillers, mealybugs and scale...though they prefer thrip larvae.


Spider Mite Predators:
The species:
PP (Phytoseiulus persimilis)
Performs well in temperatures ranging from 55-100° + F. and relative humidity levels of 55-90%.

NC (Neoseiulus californicus)
Performs well in temperatures ranging from 60- 90° F. and relative humidity levels of 60-90%.

ML (Mesoseiulus longipes)
Performs well in temperatures ranging from 65-100° + F. and relative humidity levels of 45-90%.



Spider Mite Destroyers
(Stethorus punctillum)
These tiny ladybugs eat all stages of spider-mites, and find new infestation sites on their own by flying.


I also like the idea of ACT and SAEM sprays...

[c-ray]

from http://www.ingentaconnect.com/content/esa/jee/2004/00000097/00000004/art00025
Acaricidal Properties of a Chenopodium-Based Botanical

Authors: Chiasson, H.; Bostanian, N. J.; Vincent, C.

Source: Journal of Economic Entomology, Volume 97, Number 4, August 2004 , pp. 1373-1377(5)

Publisher: Entomological Society of America

Abstract:
The emulsifiable concentrate UDA-245 [25% EC (vol:vol)], based on an essential oil extract from Chenopodium ambrosioides variety ambrosioides, a North American herbaceous plant, was compared with commercially available pesticides for their effectiveness to control the adult stage and egg hatch of the twospotted spider mite, Tetranychus urticae Koch (Acari: Tetranychidae) and the European red mite, Panonychus ulmi (Koch) (Acari: Tetranychidae). After a laboratory bioassay with adult twospotted spider mites, a 0.5% concentration of UDA-245 was more effective than 0.7% (AI) of neem oil (Neem Rose Defense). After a similar bioassay with the European red mite, a 0.5% concentration UDA-245 was as effective as 0.006% (AI) of abamectin (Avid). UDA-245 at 0.5% significantly reduced egg hatch of the twospotted spider mite, 5 and 9 d after treatment and of the European red mite 6 d after treatment. Egg hatch was significantly lower using 0.006% (AI) of abamectin, 0.7% of neem oil, and 1.0% insecticidal soap than UDA-245. Residual tests indicated that UDA-245 may be persistent in the environment only for a few hours. Only 23% mortality was noted when mites were introduced on bean leaves 1 h after treatment with a 2% concentration of UDA-245. At the recommended dose of 0.5%, UDA-245 was not considered phytotoxic for most plants tested, i.e., lettuce, roses, and tomatoes. Results suggest that a greenhouse integrated pest management program using UDA-245 could effectively and selectively control mite infestations by treating “hot spots” with negligible effect on biological control agents when treating before introduction or when natural enemies are absent.

it is aka wormseed oil, or chenopodium oil, or some other name

only place I found it so far is:
canada ->
http://www.newdirectionsaromatics.ca/chenopodium-essential-oil-p-212.html
usa -> http://www.newdirectionsaromatics.com/chenopodium-essential-oil-p-212.html

it is expensive, but I have calculated the dosage should be around 1.25 ml per litre of water (plus surfactant), so it is comparable in price to the nasty chems

I wonder if it safe for use in flowering?

[caddis]

Never ever introduce plants into blooming phase if you have had a spider sighting...Diapause is a MF....

Stickied to my forehead.

[Janosh]

diatomaceous earth is some amazing stuff and I think I'm about to go there.
I have a friend that uses it on her kids and horses to kill internal parisites.
I have reservations about dusting buds though, because running it through my lungs doesn't really apeal to me.
I'll get back to you on this after experiments. It sounds like a winner though.
Thanks allot.
Janosh